Bottom trim and floor joists

When we are finished with the foundation, we begin to install the lower frame on it. The bottom frame must be strong enough to support the weight of the entire house. In this case, timber was used for strapping 150x150mm. Floor joists are made of boards 50x200mm.

Important points to note:

1. Before laying the timber on the foundation, be sure to place roofing felt under it so that the wood does not come into contact with the metal.

2. Don’t forget to treat the wood well with antiseptic compounds that protect it from rot and wood-boring beetles.

3. Before fixing the timber, check the diagonals and level.

4. We file down the logs along the edges, leaving them on top 50 mm, from below 150x150mm, we remove.

5. We lay pieces of board between the joists on the timber. 50x150mm, the walls of the house will rest on this place, and the logs protruding above the beam will interfere with us. Having calculated the distance between the logs in advance, we cut identical pieces of board in the required quantity. This will speed up the installation of the logs (you will not need to use a tape measure when installing each log).

6. Between the floor joists in the center we install exactly the same spacer bars; they will not allow the joists to bend when they dry. These bars will fix the logs at the same distance from each other.

7. The first and last logs are installed close to the trim beam; they will help in the future to correctly install the floor.

8. We will install the insulation in the floor later, but for now we will temporarily lay a board on the joists that we will walk on when building the walls. The boards are fixed for our safety. In the future, we will use these boards for sheathing the roof and floor.

For me, it was a matter of principle to choose exactly the option when, with the least labor and material costs, you can quickly and efficiently build a full-fledged residential building for a family.

After studying several sources and many options, I decided to settle on the option, and took as a basis standard project"Canadian - 1".

I really liked this compact two-storey house ik 7x7.5 m, and I, having made the necessary calculations, decided that such a project was quite within my capabilities and means.

If there are a sufficient number of living rooms and utility premises, it looks relatively small, and the cost of construction is several times less than during construction brick house the same dimensions.

A typical project provides for the consumption of materials in the following sizes:

Edged boards 5x15 cm - 25m3;

Roofing board 2.5x15 cm - 3m3;

Polystyrene foam for insulation - 25m3;

Rolled insulation insulation - 5 rolls;

Polyurethane foam - 30 fl;

OSB - 200 sheets;

Roof waterproofing - 3 rolls;

Soft roof - area 70 m2;

cement, tar, solvent, antiseptic, anchor bolts.

According to the project, on the ground floor there is a living room with a kitchen and a large dining room, a bathroom and a small hall with a vestibule from the front door. The second floor consists of three living rooms, a small common hall and a fairly spacious bathroom. The project was also attracted by the fact that the garage has a common wall with the house, which saves materials and provides additional thermal insulation.

I chose a project, prepared the necessary materials for the first stage of work and began construction.

Before you build a house with your own hands, we lay the foundation

A properly installed foundation is the key to how long a house will last and how comfortable it will be to live in. Since my site is located on the banks of a river and groundwater they stand high, in order to avoid dampness, I did not make a basement and decided to make a foundation according to TISE on concrete piles.

My goal was to build a house with my own hands cheaply, and therefore the option on poles suited me also because of its low cost.

For the piles, I used used asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 250 mm and a length of 2.5 m. I deepened the pipes into the ground by one and a half meters, so that a column 1 meter high emerged above the ground. I reinforced them with fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm, filled them with concrete mortar and secured No. 22 anchor bolts at the top of each column.

Within a month, I personally erected 24 pillars - the basis for the future house. The concrete in each column hardened within two weeks. This time was spent purchasing and delivering materials for tying the foundation.

As soon as the concrete had finally set, I started tying - I first selected grooves from the ends of the beam with a cross-section of 15 cm for better tying, and at the joints I deepened the sockets for fastening the anchor bolts.

According to my calculations, it took me a little more than 30,000 rubles to build this - the cost of the material.

In order to fix the frame as securely as possible when assembling the harness, I placed a wide washer under each nut - this way I tightened the nuts all the way without the risk of unnecessarily damaging the beams. As the work progressed, I simultaneously treated the entire structure with tar antiseptic and waterproofed it with construction tar.

In this form, the foundation easily survived the winter, and I was convinced that I had made the right choice.

To build a wooden house with your own hands, we begin to build the frame of the first floor and frame it

You can see from my step-by-step photos how to build a house with your own hands, without using heavy equipment, additional labor and unnecessary funds.

With the onset of the first fine spring days, I set about installing the walls of the first floor. The principle of constructing a frame dwelling is that the finished frame parts are installed in the proper place and secured there.

I assembled the structural elements piece by piece on a flat area, and then lifted them onto the foundation and alternately fastened them to the base and to each other. In addition, I assembled the technical openings for windows and doors separately and also lifted them onto the walls for fastening.

Since the structures are relatively small, I coped with this work practically alone, I just resorted to the help of my wife so that she would hold the structure while I was doing the fastenings.

Sheets of roofing material must be laid between the foundation and parts of the structure.

In a month I managed to put up three walls on the first floor.

When installing the structures, I ensured that the frame posts were spaced 60 cm apart from each other, since the standard width of the OSB sheet is 120 cm.

I adhered to the same principle when installing floor transfers.

It took me two more weekends to remove all the walls of the first floor - I really wanted to quickly build a house with my own hands.

Of course, thinking about how to build a beautiful house with my own hands, I studied a lot of reference material, including the book “Individual house “platform” - it inspired me to get creative!

Taking the “Canadian” project as a basis, I made a frame during construction in accordance with the provided assembly technology. And although I changed some things during the work at my own discretion, I did not change the basis of the project in order to avoid improper distribution of the load on the load-bearing structural elements.

As a result, this is the frame I got for the first floor:

Simultaneously with raising the walls of the first floor, I began to assemble the frame of the future interfloor staircase.

The next step in solving the problem of how to build a frame house with your own hands is the process of tying the first floor.

To do this, we lay two layers of insulation along all the upper edges of the structure and then lay a 5 cm thick board along the entire perimeter.

Our ceiling joists are also floor transfers for the second floor. Therefore, we lay them apart from each other at intervals of 60 cm, attaching them to the harness.

Work in good weather goes well, and the results are obvious.

Now I know for sure that anyone can do it with their own hands wooden house build. This is a job in which the main thing is to comply with all the required standards and do everything with the utmost care - only then can you properly build a house with your own hands.

For those who are interested in this issue, my step by step photos build a frame house with your own hands.

This photo of me shows that the first floor frame and floors are completely completed. This is the beautiful “platform” I ended up with.

Work doesn't always go quickly, and on the next weekend I was able to do little - the intense heat got in the way. But the staircase, which I installed anyway, served as additional support and added rigidity to the overall structure of the first floor.

Still, a lot has been accomplished in a relatively short period of time, considering that I worked almost alone.

By the way, since according to the design there should be a two-meter wide balcony-terrace above the southern side of the house, I set the ceiling joists above this part of the first floor to the required length so that they protrude 2 meters beyond the boundary of the wall structure.

The wooden parts in the right places were additionally fastened together with metal corners. To screw in the screws, I used an electric drill with a special mount for self-tapping screws.

As a result, the transfers of interfloor ceilings look like this:

Of course, it is difficult to calculate all construction costs in advance - there are many factors that influence changes in the final cost of the project. Moreover, you still need to solve the problem of how to build a beautiful house with your own hands, and not just put up a wooden box.

When building the foundation, frame of the first floor and floors, I spent about 80,000 rubles on materials.

The approximate amount I plan to spend to build a house made of wood with my own hands is 500 thousand rubles.

The next stage of completing the task of how to build a frame house with your own hands - we begin to build the second floor, and sheathe the structure with OSB sheets

It is very difficult to work in hot weather, especially at altitude. Therefore, construction is progressing slowly. I assemble the wall frame on the ground, then lift it and put it in place. If you work carefully during the assembly of structures, joining them at the fastening site does not present any difficulties.

The photo shows how the first wall of the second floor was installed:

On hot days it was impossible to work more than three to four hours, so in the middle of summer work slowed down a little. But as soon as the intense heat subsided, work continued at the same pace. At the same time as the side walls of the second floor, the end walls were also brought “under the roof”.

It was already difficult to work here alone to build a wooden house with your own hands, so he invited two assistants, and the heavy facade structures were lifted using ropes and inclined guides.

Along with the installation of the facade structures, they also made a screed along the ridge and starting rafters.

Having finished installing the wooden structures of the walls and ridge, I started covering the walls with panels - things went much more fun. First, I covered the corner parts of the walls with panels.

I tried to do the work of covering with OSB sheets in a few days - I didn’t want to take any risks and decided to protect the inside of the structures from the threat of getting wet during rains. You can see from my photos how I managed to build a house with my own hands almost alone.

How to build a house roof with your own hands?

This is exactly the question that confronted me as soon as I finished building the walls.

Before that, I had done almost all the main work myself, occasionally resorting to outside help when it was necessary to support part of the structure or lift heavy façade parts to the second floor.

And now, in order to solve the question of how to build the roof of a house with your own hands, when it came to lathing the roof, I had to call another assistant, since I am not very successful at working on the rafters alone. The work was much more fun together.

Just like the ceilings of the first floor, I put a 5 cm thick board on the rafters, and also installed the rafters at intervals of 60 cm, so that I could then lay the OSB sheet on a base of three boards.

My assistant and I installed a vapor barrier on top of the rafters, using 3 rolls of roof hydraulic membrane.

OSB sheets were laid on top of the vapor barrier material. They were lifted onto the roof in the same way as the façade frames.

One side of the roof has already been covered with OSB. There are small areas and one more slope left. Since autumn is approaching and the rains have become more frequent, I threw away all other things and began to work closely on the roof - in order to protect the frame from excessive wetting. The work is hard, but perseverance conquers everything, and a helper is very helpful.

At this stage, it took me 7 cubes of 150x50 boards to build; almost two - 200x50; and 65 sheets of OSB - for external cladding, without floors and partitions.

All the lumber has practically gone into use, only the smallest trimmings - no more than 20 cm, are stored for further use as fuel - on a fire or in a smokehouse. If you use materials sparingly and carefully, you can build a house with your own hands relatively cheaply.

But since this season I am physically unable to cover the house with siding, in order to prevent heavy and frequent rains from spoiling the material, I decided to treat the slabs with tar diluted in a solvent.

The house temporarily acquired a gloomy black appearance, but is now reliably protected from moisture and destruction.

How to build a wooden house with your own hands: insulation and sound insulation

When I had completed the exterior work, during rainy weather I did a little work on the interior - insulating and at the same time soundproofing the floors with foam plastic slabs.

The gaps between the joints and walls were foamed with polyurethane foam using a gun. From the bottom I hemmed OSB sheets to the floor slabs of the first floor using wood screws, having previously supported them with spacers. This is very important in order to properly build a house with your own hands - in this way I not only protected the internal structures from strong temperature changes, but also protected the foam from destruction by mice, which love to live in it.

The floor inside the room was covered separately in rooms, so as not to damage the foam in the ceilings.

Isolon was laid on top of the log on the floor and secured with a construction stapler, and on top - OSB sheets, which were laid on the floor in a checkerboard pattern. This is important, because when laying sheets joined at four corners, the floors begin to creak heavily.

Gradually, the inside of the house is transformed and takes on an attractive appearance. Here you can already get serious about the internal work on wall insulation.

The work for the construction season has been completed, I covered the window openings for the winter with OSB sheets and covered them with film, and mothballed the construction of the house until next spring.

So, I have completed the main work and my dream - to build a house out of wood with my own hands - is close to completion. In the winter, weather permitting, I will begin interior finishing work, and with the onset of spring, work will begin with renewed vigor.

I hope I explained in detail and proved with the help of photos that you can build a frame house with your own hands!

Perhaps some of you, after reading my article, will be inspired to build one, and the photos given here will help him with this.

Houses in our country were traditionally built in the form of log cabins or stone buildings. However, there are other options low-rise construction which can be given preference. For example, methods have been developed to Step-by-step instruction includes 4 main stages:

• pouring the foundation;
• frame installation;
• construction of walls and insulation;
• roof construction.

Such buildings are erected quickly and without the use of special lifting equipment. Frame houses are inexpensive and assembled in one season, and they are no less warm and comfortable than permanent ones made of logs or stone.

Choosing a home location

The use of wood means that the ground under the house will not contain much moisture. And the place itself should be dry and well ventilated so that dampness does not lead to rapid rotting.

Blueprints frame houses must be based on calculations and linked to the construction site. Descriptions from the Internet are understandable only to specialists who have a certain amount of theoretical knowledge and practical skills.

The foundation must be built in accordance with the nature of the soil, and the house - based on operational loads.

The need for a house project

The developer must have a house project created by specialists. In addition, it is coordinated with many services that can make changes and additions to it.

At the first stage, you can make a sketch of the house yourself, but in the future you will have to choose a suitable project for it. For construction, you always need drawings of frame houses, based on the necessary calculations. You will have to pay for the project. The standard one is cheaper, but you can order your own, which will take into account the developer’s requirements. It also contains a construction technology that should be strictly adhered to. This also applies to the creation of engineering systems.

Home engineering systems

The project must indicate all utility networks when a frame house is being built with your own hands. The step-by-step instructions provide for the laying of communications at certain stages of construction, starting from the foundation. When pouring it, technological holes are immediately made. Drilling them later in concrete will be much more difficult.

The electrical system includes the distribution panel, electrical wiring, appliances, outlets, and grounding. Sockets are located no further than 4 m from each other. They contain protective covers if water sources are nearby.

The convenience of using drinking and hot water, as well as the removal and processing of wastewater, depends on the correct installation of water supply and sewerage systems.

The ventilation system contains air ducts with holes.

Construction of the foundation

The foundation is chosen to be columnar, shallow strip or concrete blocks. To increase strength, reinforcement and monolithic strapping are used. Frame wooden houses built with a small foundation designed for low loads. It requires few materials.

Due to their cost savings frame house gets lower. A trench is dug or wells drilled for it, and then a cushion of sand is made. Before concreting, reinforcement and formwork are installed. Filling strip foundation It is advisable to do it with careful compaction. To install the house frame in liquid concrete, vertical studs 500 mm long are installed in increments of about 2 m. The plane of the grillage is leveled with a solution.

Installation of the lower frame of the house

A week after pouring the concrete, a lower frame is laid on top of the entire foundation - with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. It is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic, and the bottom is waterproofed from two layers of roofing material. The beam is attached to foundation studs or anchor bolts, for which holes with a depth of more than 100 mm are drilled. A half-wood joint is made along the length and at the corners and secured with nails.

The beams must be completely laid and connected to each other and to the foundation. After this, grooves are cut into them and floor joists from a 50x150 mm board are inserted. Their upper part should be set in a horizontal plane, and in the lower part, bars are nailed onto which the subfloor is laid. A vapor barrier is attached to it with a stapler, and then the space between the joists is filled with insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam). The flooring is made from edged boards 40x150 mm on top.

Frame assembly

The frame is the foundation that holds the entire structure of the house. It consists of vertical posts connected by horizontal straps and crossbars. When you build a frame house with your own hands, step-by-step instructions provide for a strict installation sequence. The material can be a metal profile or wood. The use of metal requires welding equipment and the ability to work with it. For a wooden frame, hard wood is used, for example, oak or larch. The racks are made the same size as the height of the room. They are connected to the bottom trim using the tongue-and-groove method. The fit is done precisely, without gaps.

The size and distance between the posts should be selected, first of all, depending on the load transmitted from above. For them, the dimensions of the material used for cladding are selected. The racks with the lower frame are connected by temporary braces, which gives additional rigidity to the structure.

After the vertical beam is installed, the top trim is laid. The principle of its connection is the same - using grooves identical to the lower beam. The fastening from above to each rack is done with two nails, buried at least 10 cm. The frame is finally strengthened with permanent bevels, and temporary ones are dismantled.

Construction and insulation of walls

The outside of the house is sheathed with boards, clapboard, siding, and pseudo-timber.

Insulation is carried out with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool and other materials. They take on the heat-shielding properties of common building materials. In this regard, frame houses are inexpensive. For year-round living, the thickness of the thermal insulation must be at least 5 cm. This material fills the entire space between the beams so that there are no voids. To prevent displacement, the insulation is fixed with special fasteners.

When we build a frame house, it is necessary to protect wooden structures from moisture.

A waterproofing film is attached to the studs on top of the insulation, after which a sheathing of slats is installed for ventilation under the outer skin.

The inside walls of a frame house are sheathed with gypsum fiber boards or OSB.

Ceiling installation

The ceiling is supported by ceiling beams mounted on the beam of the top trim, in which grooves are cut for them. Fastening can also be done using steel brackets. The markings are made first on the ground. The beams are inserted into the grooves and secured to the frame with nails. In places of interior partitions, supporting support beams are installed. They are also connected into a common structure with the upper and lower trims. At the locations of the vertical posts, a ceiling panel made of tongue-and-groove boards is nailed.

Ceiling thermal insulation device

It is laid on top of the ceiling panel. It is placed overlapping the beams and secured with a stapler or slats. Polymer membranes or special films are used for vapor barrier.

Insulation is tightly laid flush with the floor beams: mineral or glass wool, expanded clay, polystyrene foam. It is covered on top with a waterproofing film and covered across the beams with a shield of boards. If the distance between them is more than 500 mm, the logs are laid perpendicularly, and then the floor is made.

The opening for the entrance to the 2nd floor is made by inserting two crossbars between the beams.

Erection of the roof

The roof has significant weight, so it must rest on the walls of the house, which are already finished, but do not have decorative finishing. When we build a frame house (as well as any other), to make a roof it is necessary to determine the slope, the number of slopes, roofing material, dimensions, number and pitch of rafters.

The roof looks beautiful if it has a complex shape. But at the same time, the labor intensity of manufacturing and the cost of a frame house increase. The most common is a gable roof, which is suitable for attics and attics. Its design is simple and contains only one skate. The absence of valleys (concave corners) is an advantage, since these places are the most vulnerable and difficult to manufacture.

The roof slope must be more than 28º so that snow slides off it. If it is made more than 50º, the wind load will be significantly higher. The optimal slope is considered to be 35-45º, which is excellent from a design point of view: then the roof is not flat, but not too sharp. Many frame wooden houses are made with attics, allowing for additional living space. For convenience, you need to erect small walls 1.1-1.6 m high there. Then beds or wardrobes can be placed in the lowest places.

A frame house with an attic is a lightweight and durable structure, which, if constructed correctly, allows you to create comfortable conditions with a minimum investment of time and money.

The cross-section of the rafters is selected based on the placement of insulation between them, the thickness of which is usually 100-150 mm. To be on the safe side, take a board measuring 150x50 mm. Its length is 6 m. Two boards are nailed together on one side in the shape of the letter L. Then they are lifted onto the roof and the desired angle is selected, leaning on the beam of the upper frame. In this case, the overhangs should protrude beyond the wall at a distance of 30-55 cm. Afterwards, the boards are connected with a crossbar, and a sample of rafters is obtained. In places of support, triangular cutouts are made to a third of the height. houses involves the use of the upper frame frame as a Mauerlat. According to the model, rafters are made for the entire roof, so that the pitch between them is 70-80 cm.

The crossbar is located no lower than the level of the first floor. It should not be placed too high, as the connection will not be sufficiently rigid. The rafters in the ridge are connected in half a claw. First, they are installed on the gables, then the cords are pulled between them and the rest are placed along them.

The type of sheathing depends on the type of roofing material. It can be thinned or solid. For any type of roof, the sheathing is attached in the area of ​​the ridge beam without a gap.

Roofing device

A convenient material for covering the roof of a frame house is bituminous shingles. It is light, plastic, easy to install and cheap. Disadvantages are flammability and rapid fading.

Metal tiles and corrugated sheets are universal materials and give the roof an impressive look. They are easy to install, light weight and low cost. The disadvantages include noise during rain and hail.

When the roof is ready, drainage and drainage systems are installed to remove precipitation away from the house.

Conclusion

For those who are seriously thinking about reliable and comfortable housing, today it is not a problem to build a frame house with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions make it possible to do the work quickly, efficiently, inexpensively and without errors.

A warm and inexpensive house that can be built in one season is the dream of any owner. Frame house construction meets these requirements. The low weight of all structural elements makes it possible to do without the use of lifting and other special equipment, and modern thermal insulation materials make frame houses suitable for living even in harsh northern winters. But it is not enough to know how to build a frame house; it is necessary to comply with all the requirements of the technology and take into account the phased features of the construction of the structure.

Finished view of a frame house

Basic rules of frame construction

To ensure that the final result of construction does not disappoint, before construction you need to familiarize yourself with simple rules:

• The main criterion when choosing lumber is quality. It is better to give preference to laminated veneer lumber than naturally dried wood, which can crack when drying out. A good option There will be technical drying of the timber, which minimizes the amount of moisture in the tree.
• Entrust the work to professionals. Building a house in which you will live is not the most suitable platform for experiments; if something is done wrong, then at best it will lead to uncomfortable living conditions, and at worst to emergency situations. And this is not even taking into account the fact that construction is not only the construction of walls, but also many narrow-profile types of work: wiring communications (sewage, electricity, heating), roofing work at heights and much more.

A professional team builds a frame house in a short time

• Every little thing matters. Trying to save money on fastening materials, insulation or wood impregnations can be expensive. Low-quality but cheap insulation can emit harmful substances that are hazardous to health. Unreliable fastening of elements can lead to damage to the integrity of the frame.

The technology of building a frame house is a step-by-step work, which in itself will help save budget funds. Therefore, you should not save on building materials.

Choosing a location on the site

Two groups of factors that influence the location of the future home are recommendatory and obligatory.

The latter include:

• Fire regulations. They regulate the rules for the location of buildings depending on the fire hazard. For example, the distance between buildings made of non-combustible materials is at least 6 meters, for wood and other combustible materials - 12 m.
• Sanitary standards. They regulate the distance from the house to outbuildings, power lines, trees and other things.

To choose the right location for your home, you need to take into account many factors.

• Horizontal orientation. Windows facing south or east will allow for maximum natural light.
• Accounting for prevailing winds. There is no need to install additional windows and doors on the leeward side.
• Distance to roadway. The greater the distance to the road, the quieter it will be in the house, but it will increase the access road.
• Exterior view from the window. It is preferable to have windows overlooking the garden rather than those overlooking the estate's courtyard and outbuildings.

To comply with all standards and select the most suitable location, you must contact the design organization.

The foundation for a house is the basis

A strong foundation is the key to a strong and durable home. For frame buildings, a foundation of one of the following types is usually built:

• shallow belt;
• pile-screw.

In the first case, excavation work will first be carried out so that there is somewhere to pour the foundation, then formwork is made and a reinforcing frame is laid out in it.

The second stage is pouring concrete. It is technologically correct to do this in one step, but sometimes layer-by-layer filling is allowed. As the formwork hardens, it is removed - the foundation should gain strength within 30 days. After this, waterproofing work is carried out, and the assembly of the lower trim begins.

Scheme of a strip foundation for a frame house

The pile foundation, in turn, is considered one of the most inexpensive and quickly erected.

The pile is a thick metal pipe, the end of which is equipped with a screw blade. They are twisted into the ground using special equipment. There are some types driven piles, but they are rarely used.

Video description

With advantages and disadvantages screw piles You can see it in the video:

Piles are an innovative method of foundation installation that has recently appeared on the domestic market. Therefore, for now it enjoys the distrust of consumers. However, correct installation in compliance with all requirements will ensure the reliability of the building and a long service life.

Bottom rail and floor

To protect the piping from moisture from below, roofing material or waterproofing is laid on the foundation. You can use bitumen mastic, but it will be more expensive than roll material. Sometimes materials are combined: once the foundation is covered with mastic, and waterproofing is laid on top.

The assembly of a frame house begins with strapping. For it, boards with a section of 15x5 cm or timber 15x10 cm are used. The boards are laid around the perimeter and aligned along the outer edge of the foundation. Holes for the studs are drilled in the required places. The second layer of boards is laid in such a way as to cover the bottom joints of the boards. This gives the structure additional strength. Installation of timber is easier and faster, but its price is higher than that of boards. In addition, the general load bearing capacity a double board will be higher than a single beam.

This is what fixed joists look like

A 15x5 cm board is installed on the harness on the edge. It is also aligned along the outer edge of the foundation and secured with ordinary nails. The logs are mounted from boards of the same section. Fastened with nails or special corners. Installation step – 40–60 cm.

Important! The longer the lag, the smaller the step. This will ensure even weight distribution and eliminate sagging.

The next stage is insulation. The simplest option is polystyrene foam. It is easily cut with a hacksaw and fits tightly between the joists. This will eliminate the need to install a subfloor underneath, which will hold the insulation.

To support the insulation, you will need to fill two 5x5 cm bars along the joists. Two layers are laid at intervals - the top layer overlaps the seams of the bottom one. Joints and seams with joists are treated with sealant.

Joints with joists must be sealed with sealing materials

Important! Polystyrene foam is a flammable material, which makes it undesirable for insulating wooden structures. Therefore, sheets of stone wool and expanded polystyrene are most often used for thermal insulation of floors.

To install the subfloor, a 10x2.5 cm edged board is used. Plywood 0.5–0.6 cm thick is laid on top of it. Sheets of plywood can be laid immediately without a flooring of boards. In this case, the thickness of the sheets should be at least 1.5 cm. This option is faster, but in some cases more expensive. Like brickwork, plywood is laid in staggered patterns. A gap of a few centimeters between the sheets compensates for expansion when air humidity increases.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of frame houses from construction companies, presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.

A strong frame is the key to a strong house

There are two possible schemes for building a frame house:

• construction of a wall on the floor and its subsequent installation in a vertical position;
• assembly of all elements immediately on site.

The first method is usually used in factories for the production of modules of frame-panel houses. In some cases, assembly on the floor is easier than on site, but the resulting structure will have considerable weight, so several people will be needed to lift and install it.

Installation of an already assembled wall

Even one person can assemble the elements vertically at once. This method is slower, but will help to avoid inaccuracies in dimensions - the parts are assembled “in place”.

For one-story buildings, corner posts are chosen with a section of 10x10 cm. If another residential floor is planned, then the dimensions increase to 15x15 cm.

The intermediate posts must be as deep as at the corners, and at least 5 cm wide.

To calculate the pitch, there are special formulas that take into account the load on the structure. But in practice, most often the pitch between the racks depends on the width of the insulation. The distance between them should be several centimeters less than the insulation. This will ensure a tight fit to the racks and retain heat.

Racks are most often fastened using metal corners - one corner on each side. It is possible to mount it with a cut into the bottom trim board, but this may compromise the integrity of the entire structure.

Another ancient method is dowel fastening.

Scheme of fastening the rack with a dowel

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer frame house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

A hole is drilled diagonally through the rack to the middle of the lower boards or timber - a wooden pin is driven into it. This provides reliable fastening, but this method is difficult to implement. In addition, if the material is wet, the dowel may dry out and lose rigidity.

Depending on the type of outer cladding, permanent or temporary cuts are made. If the outer part is sheathed with sheet material with sufficient strength, it will add additional rigidity to the structure and constant mowing will not be required.

If the exterior finish is hard, this option for installing slopes is possible.

If the finishing material is composite - siding or lining, then the installation of permanent slopes will be required.

The best option would be to install four small slopes on each rack - two on top, two on bottom.

The installation of corner posts requires special attention. The technology is simple, but simply installing a vertical beam can freeze. If the cross-section is 15x15 cm, then for a moderate zone this may be enough to not allow heat to pass through.

Vertically installed racks are secured with bevels

If lumber of a smaller cross-section is used or the owners additionally want to insulate the corner elements, then several options are possible:

• To increase the thickness, two boards with a depth equal to the depth of the post and a width of 5 cm are nailed to the corner posts. After external finishing, a special platband is placed on the corner, which provides an air gap between the corner and the platband board. This will reduce heat loss.
• Before starting the outer cladding, a counter-latten is installed that will hold the waterproofing. Typically a beam of 5x5 or 5x4 cm is used. 5 cm is the optimal size for the ventilation gap between the wall and the finishing material. The selected material is attached to the counter-batten - lining, siding, imitation timber.

Attaching the counter-batten to the posts of a frame house

Overlap

Ceiling beams are attached to the top frame using the cutting method or to metal corners. The notch should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the top trim beam. The cross-section and pitch of the beams depends on the purpose of the second floor.

• If it is assumed that there is an attic or a full residential floor, then the construction of the floor is similar to the floor of the first floor.
• If there is only an attic above, then the beams are taken with a smaller cross-section.

For ease of work, a subfloor made of 10x2.5 cm boards is laid on the floor. This will make moving easier and make work safer.

If the house assumes a one-story structure, then the upper beams are mounted with a 30-centimeter extension beyond the walls of the frame. This is done to secure the rafters.

Fastening beams using the cutting method

Installation of the rafter system

An important stage in the construction of a frame house, as with any other technology, is the selection of the type and installation of the roof. Frame construction positioned as a quick construction site. Therefore, most often they choose a conventional gable design. If all construction standards are observed, the roof of a frame house can be constructed of any configuration and complexity, but this will require more time.

For good snow removal, the roof slope should be more than 28 degrees, but should not exceed 50 degrees - the wind load on such a roof increases several times.

To construct the rafters, boards 15x5 cm 6 m long are taken. The first pair of rafters is assembled from two boards and installed on the edge of the frame. The same pair is installed on the opposite side. Cords are stretched between two pairs of rafters on both sides to control the plane of the roof. The rest of the rafters are set along them. The step between them varies from 60 to 80 cm depending on the choice of insulation. For strengthening, wooden crossbars with a cross-section of 15x5 cm are used. They fasten a pair of rafters like the letter “A”.

Video description

How to make a rafter system for a frame house is shown in the video:

The nature of the lathing depends on the selected roofing material. This can be soft tiles, corrugated sheets or metal tiles. The limitation will be the weight of the roofing material. For example, the use of clay or clinker tiles is not recommended - heavy weight will create additional stress on the frame of the house.

Photos of frame houses

Frame house with balcony

Frame house with classic German exterior decoration

Original frame house with a small roof slope

Frame house with veranda and sloping roof

Factory-assembled two-story frame house

Construction of a frame house in winter

Frame house with a 4-slope combined roof

Conclusion

A frame house is a technology that is only gaining popularity in domestic housing construction. Short construction times and cost savings are significant advantages over other construction methods. But the technology for building a frame house will require strict adherence to all technological processes and stages of construction, which will allow its advantages to be fully appreciated.

Many people dream of owning their own country house, and this is quite possible if you decide to build a frame house with your own hands. This is much faster than erecting a monumental brick building.

Advantages of frame houses

Today's building materials and techniques are gradually pushing traditional construction methods into the background. Northern Europe has been building houses according to frame technology. Now many Russian developers are doing the same. What's so good about these houses?

The base of a one- or two-story building will be a wooden or metal frame. But we prefer the first. Walls are attached to it. On the walls - floors and roofing. The resulting structure is monolithic and reliable. Then comes insulation, finishing work and the house is ready. Let's look at the advantages of frame houses:

Unfortunately, we haven't come up with something like this yet building material or a way that would be ideal. If there are advantages, then there will definitely be disadvantages:

• The hollowness of wooden structures. The small weight of the structure does not allow sufficiently dampen significant vibrations.
• A properly designed project and appropriate tools are required.

Foundation for a frame house

In order for your home to be warm, strong and durable, you need to make a foundation for the walls. Its main function is that it creates a rigid monolithic frame belt for the future home. Most suitable for a frame house:

• A strip foundation, in which reinforcement plays the role of stiffeners, and concrete unites the base monolithically.
• Made from prefabricated reinforced concrete, where structural strength is achieved by reliable fastening of reinforced concrete blocks.
• Columnar foundation, here the main role belongs to the monolithic grillage.

Let's consider the last option. When the weight of the structure is insignificant, there is no need to make a monolithic concrete base. We will install the foundation from asbestos pipes. On a cleared and level area, we mark support points around the perimeter. There should be a distance between them of at least 70–100 cm, if possible more. Look at the photo, you can see that the main condition is the uniform distribution of racks under the load-bearing structures and along the perimeter of the building. Using the marked points, we dig holes a meter deep with a diameter of 200 mm. The width depends on the size of the pipe. We compact the soil and install the pipes strictly vertically. We fill all the posts with concrete. You can order it or make it yourself. Basically, this takes up to one cubic meter, the volume depends on the parameters of the building. The concrete will gain full strength after 28 days, then construction can continue.

Bottom trim device

Now it is necessary to lay timber on the piles according to the layout of the interior - so that there is a foundation under each future wall. The best size timber is 5x20cm. To prevent the wood from rotting, it must be treated with an antiseptic. A layer of roofing felt laid under the wooden base will prevent moisture from penetrating from the foundation. In order for the geometry of the house to be maintained and the entire structure to look monolithic, it is necessary to correctly lay the timber on the foundation. Horizontal angular deviation should not be more than 10–12 mm.

The exposed grillage is secured to the foundation with anchor bolts, for which an electric drill is used. Or, during the process of pouring concrete, studs are installed into the pipes, onto which the wooden elements of the lower horizontal piping of the house are subsequently mounted.

Installation of the lower trim is carried out by assembling the timber into a single frame structure. The beams are fastened together by various notches. The most commonly used method is “in the paw” or “in the half-tree”. In the corners, the timber is secured with dowels, anchors or ordinary nails, the length of which is at least 200 mm. If nails are chosen for fastening, then at least 4 of them need to be driven in. on every corner.

When fastening with dowels, a hole is made in the beam with a diameter similar to the diameter of the dowel. The dowel driven into the hole should protrude to a height of at least 8–10 cm, as shown in the video. In the future, a vertical corner post of the building frame will be installed on this dowel.

Frame wall construction

Vertical posts are made of timber. The height of the racks should be equal to the height of the room in its pure form. The racks are installed in increments of 50–60 cm so that the entire frame subsequently takes on a monolithic and durable structure. The installation of vertical elements is carried out with the simultaneous installation of struts so that the entire structure does not crumble or become askew before time. In those areas where it is planned to install interior partitions and doorways, it is also necessary to install vertical racks. By supporting the ceiling beams, they eliminate sagging and give the necessary strength to the frame. This is clearly visible in the photo.

The verticality of the racks is checked with a building level, as shown in the video. After this, you should begin installing the top trim and floor beams, for which timber with a section of 5x15 cm is also used. All elements can be fastened with long nails.

Construction of the roof of a frame house

The main element of the roof is the rafters. To do this, you need beams with a cross-section of 5x15 cm. Their edges are hemmed together in such a way as to create an end connection at an angle of 50–55°. The rafters are assembled using nails and secured with crossbars.

Some builders assemble this structure on the ground. The photo shows that the letter “A” is formed. The rafter triangles are lifted onto the ceiling and reinforced with the help of ridge boards installed on both sides at the upper end of the rafter structures. After the entire rafter system is held monolithically, you need to assemble the sheathing. 2.5x15 cm boards are suitable for sheathing. We nail the boards at a distance of 10 cm from each other and extend them beyond the ends by 25 cm. We lay roofing felt or waterproofing film on the sheathing and fasten it with a construction stapler. It prevents moisture from entering the attic space.

And then comes the turn of metal tiles or other roofing material. To make the roof surface look beautiful and monolithic, you should start attaching the material from the bottom rows. The sheets are laid overlapping, one after another, and so on until the ridge, as can be seen in the photo. We cut down the protruding sheathing boards, fasten the roof wind structures and lay the ridge elements.

Floor installation of a frame house

Logs are laid on the laid beams of the lower frame, after which the subfloor is installed. You can use an unedged board for it. Depending on the type of finishing coating chosen, logs are laid on the subfloor or a continuous flooring is made. In order for the floor to be warm, it must be insulated with mineral wool laid in the space between the joists, or with expanded polystyrene if a continuous covering is being made.

Smooth boards 5x15 cm are suitable as lags; they are fastened with staples and nailed to the lags. If you are making a wooden floor, you should make sure that the lumber is well dried and planed, otherwise cracks may appear in the future. Treat the finished coating with drying oil. And after complete drying, it will be possible to paint the surface or varnish it.

Finishing a frame house

In order for a self-built 6x6 frame house to serve you for a long time, all wooden parts of the frame must be treated with an antiseptic. The frame structure is sheathed on the outside with boards or OSB boards. We install hydro and vapor barriers to keep the house warm. After this, the interior wall cladding is produced and completed. Now it is possible to use ready-made 3-layer panels from which the walls of the building are assembled. Interior and exterior decoration, choice of window structures and door panels is made according to your wishes.

If you want to build a two-story house, then the technology will be the same. But before choosing a project, look at the photo and video materials. Typically, such a structure is erected with a device attic room, which will be the second floor. At the same time, quite a lot of materials and time are saved, and the additional space obtained as a result of this decision is quite enough for a family of 4–5 people. The main thing is to make sufficient insulation of the attic

If desired, the standard project can always be changed in accordance with your conditions and desires. In any case, such a house will look monolithic and beautiful.