Construction of the foundation is a very important stage of any construction. A pile-screw foundation is generally cheaper than a similar one monolithic foundation, but its installation also requires significant funds. Often, developers can get by with installing screw piles on their own, without involving third-party teams. Moreover, in some cases it is possible to use piles made by yourself in artisanal conditions.

1. When can you use homemade screw piles?

Foundations on screw piles are used for a wide variety of types of buildings. It is safe to say that in most cases a pile-screw foundation is best option For individual construction. When installing such foundations, there are strict norms and rules that determine both the quality and standard size of the piles themselves, and the conditions for their installation.

However, there are many cases when the costs of constructing a pile-screw foundation can be significantly reduced - when the requirements for the piles or for the foundation itself are relatively simplified:

1. When constructing the lightest buildings, where a very large margin of safety is not required
2. If necessary, use a small number of piles in addition to the existing foundation bearing the main load

It is clear that to make foundation elements with your own hands you need

• Availability of qualifications
• Availability of necessary tools and premises
• Strict adherence to the basic rules for working with metal structures

Light and non-critical buildings where you can use a foundation made from handmade screw piles include:

• Fences that do not require significant weight of the canvas
• Canopies with low design weight of structures
• Extensions to the house that do not significantly load the soil
• Installation of single pillars that are not expected to bear heavy loads
• Installation of temporary structures with low design load

In addition, it is possible to use non-certified piles for minor repairs of an old foundation, if the loads on it are small. It is clear that if possible, it is easier to make several piles yourself than to buy them, often overpaying for delivery.

But, we repeat, in any case, the piles must comply with acceptable standards and tolerances.

2. Design of screw piles

The design of screw piles has been described in detail in other articles on our website. Let us recall the main provisions.

The screw pile consists of:

• Pipe-shaped bodies
• Tip
• Blades

If necessary, a head is made for the piles - a platform on which the strapping beam is installed.

All these elements, except, of course, the pipe, can be made by hand.

3. Requirements for pipes for screw piles

IN general case The requirements for pipes for piles are quite strict:

1. Use only seamless pipes with ordinary steel grades: St20, St09g2s, St30KhMA, etc.
2. Pipes must be new or unused, free of corrosion
3. The diameter and wall thickness of the pipes must correspond to the calculated loads on the foundation.

As for the diameter of the pipes, there are the most common relationships between the diameter and the load-bearing load used in construction and soil conditions:

89 mm – load up to 1.4 tons, wetlands, peat bogs

108 mm – load up to 3.5 tons, except for rocky soils

133 mm – load up to 6 tons, except for rocky soils

The wall thickness of pipes of the specified diameter varies from 3 to 6 mm, increasing accordingly. The higher the wall thickness, the more reliable the pipe will be as a support, but the weight of the pipe itself increases and the pipe will be more expensive.

Typically the pipes range from 6 to 12 meters in length. It is recommended to select the lengths of purchased pipes so that they are multiples of the estimated length of the pile. Thus, a standard length pipe of 11.8 meters is suitable for making four piles 3 meters long.

The pipes are usually made of structural grades of steel. They are cut either with special band saws or with gas welding.

3. Making the pile tip

Screw piles can have different types of tips, and not all of them can be made at home. Two main types of tips:

• Cast tip in which the pile cone and blade form a single cast element
• Welded tip, manufactured separately from the pipe body
• Pointed tip from the pipe itself

It is almost impossible to make a cast tip under artisanal conditions. Special foundry equipment is required - furnace, molds, etc. However, you can purchase ready-made cast tips at specialized enterprises. All that remains is to weld them to the ends of the pipes.

It is much easier to sharpen the pipe at the end and weld a blade to it. It is this method that is widely used for the artisanal production of screw piles.

In this case, the end of the pipe is marked according to a template, and excess metal is trimmed. As a result, teeth remain at the end of the pipe, which bunch up towards the center. Usually, standard way involves cutting out four teeth.

The metal from which the pipe is made is quite strong, so the operation of manufacturing the body is quite labor-intensive, especially with a wall thickness of more than 4 mm.

After the cone is assembled, all connections must be thoroughly welded. Incorrect and poor-quality welding can lead to the tooth splitting when it comes into contact with sufficiently dense layers of soil or rocky inclusions in the soil get in the way of the pile.

Another way to make a conical tip is to weld it separately from the pipe from separate elements cut from a metal sheet. Such a tip can be given the appearance of the end of a Phillips screwdriver, additional stiffeners can be welded, etc. Subsequently, the finished cone is welded to the pipe body, similar to a cast tip. Obviously, the connection between the welded tip and the pipe body must be of very high quality and reliable.

Note also that in the simplest case, the tip of the pipe can be sharpened without resorting to the methods described. You can simply cut the end of the pipe at an angle. Such piles are quite suitable for the construction of fences and the lightest buildings, because the load on the blades in this case is minimal and the role of the tip is to ensure easy penetration of the pile into the ground. As a rule, the pipe is cut at an angle of 45 degrees. To prevent soil from getting into the body of the pipe (which will significantly shorten its service life due to corrosion of the inner wall), an ellipse made of a metal sheet of the appropriate size is welded to the cut end of the pipe.

4. Screw pile blade

The most important and labor-intensive operation in making a pile is cutting and welding the blade. It is the blade that largely determines the performance of a screw pile - easy screwing in and withstanding both loads from the weight of structures and “pulling” loads.

The ease of screwing into the ground is determined by the width of the blade and the sharpness of its edges. Typically, the thickness of the blade is selected in accordance with the diameter of the pipe:

• 73 mm – 10-15 cm
• 89 mm – 15-20 cm
• 108 mm – 20-25 cm
• 133 mm – 25-35 cm

The thickness of the metal of the blade usually does not exceed 2-3 mm, which ensures sufficient sharpness of the blade edge and sufficient strength. In addition, in artisanal conditions, cutting a thicker sheet without guillotine shears is problematic.

The manufacture of the blade itself is a rather complex engineering task, because it must be shaped so that it fits perfectly into the pointed cone of the pile. In the simplest case, two petals are made with an internal diameter corresponding to the thickness of the cone in a given area. And they are slightly bent and welded one above the other. The distance of the lower petal of the blade from the end of the cone is taken to be approximately 15-20 cm. The upper one is placed higher, so that something like a screw is formed.

The quality of the connection between the blade and the pipe body plays perhaps the most important role in the production of a screw pile. It is in this area that the screw pile experiences the greatest loads during screwing. In addition, it is the welded joint of the blade and pipe that is the most vulnerable point in terms of metal corrosion during pile operation. If the pipe body itself is protected from corrosion by a coating (more on that below), then the weld seam is the most vulnerable, so it needs to be made thick enough.

5. Protection of the screw pile from corrosion

Industrially manufactured screw piles are well protected from corrosion - they are usually covered with a two or three-layer layer of high-quality anti-corrosion primer, often by powder painting. Hot-dip galvanizing of pipes is also widely used.

In everyday conditions, you can simply paint the pile with high-quality primer (ordinary primer for metal structures is suitable), and you need to apply at least two layers, allowing the previous one to dry. For better protection, it is recommended to coat the pipe body with a primer - a special anti-corrosion compound.

Such a coating is quite enough for decades of service of the screw pile.

We must also not forget about filling the pile concrete mixture after screwing in - all this is described in the article on our website dedicated to protecting piles from corrosion.

6. Conclusion

The screw pile is not a product of increased complexity. Its production is quite within the capabilities of an experienced craftsman with the skill of working with metal, as well as a convenient workshop. However, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the permissible standards mentioned above. In the end, the stability of the foundation and the durability of the structure will depend on the quality of the pile.

The foundation using supports is very common today because it is quite simple to build. In addition, screw piles can be made with your own hands, which reduces the cost of the work process. If the building area has heaving soils that are regularly flooded, then using a similar construction technology is all the more relevant.

Features of manufacturing supports

Do-it-yourself screw piles today are increasingly being made or purchased for the construction of a foundation. Their popularity lies in the fact that these elements for the base can be made independently, and the materials on the construction market for carrying out these works are very affordable. The design of the steel support is based on a pipe, the wall thickness of which must be 4 mm or more; among other things, the support must have a cutting blade, which is mounted on a cone-shaped tip. The system also includes a head, which is attached to the upper supporting part of the element by welding.

The need for a head

If you decide to make screw piles with your own hands, then it is important to remember that the cap is only necessary if you plan to build a wooden structure. For houses whose walls are based on other materials, this component is not used. It is worth remembering that if you independently manufacture the main elements of the foundation, then responsibility for strength will lie with the manufacturer himself.

The final result of the work directly depends not only on the quality of the steel used in the work, but also on the strength of the weld. It will be necessary to maintain the dimensions and ensure reliable fastening of each element of the pile. If the support is performed correctly, its use will ensure a smooth and uniform entry of the structure into the soil. The element will comply with the design loads. In addition, the supports guarantee maximum stability of the entire building.

If screw piles are made with your own hands, then each element must have a high margin of strength and reliability; this is the only way to ensure the stability of the foundation and the entire structure. If you want to save money, then you should definitely familiarize yourself with the recommendations that will be useful for carrying out work on the production of piles.

In order to make screw piles for the foundation with your own hands, you need to select metal pipes whose diameter corresponds to the design parameters. It is equally important to take into account the maximum wall thickness. Before carrying out work, it is necessary to prepare metal blanks or steel sheets that will form the basis of the supports and the head.

Diameter and length of piles

The diameter and length of metal pipes can be considered the main technical characteristics of supports. The choice of these parameters will depend on the type of soil. The length is calculated based on the load produced by the building structure. Thus, in order to make screw piles for the foundation with your own hands, you need to select a pipe whose diameter is 89 mm. For a massive fence, it will be necessary to prepare supports with a diameter in the range of 47-89 millimeters.

Technology for carrying out work on the production of screw piles

In order to make a pile shaft, you need to prepare a pipe. At the end of this element, using a grinder, you should cut out triangular scallops, the number of which is limited to six pieces. Then a sledgehammer comes into play, with which you need to form a cone.

When making screw piles with your own hands, joints will be formed that need to be carefully welded and straightened. The passage part must be made using special blanks that have cast tips, which is most preferable. As an alternative solution, you can use a pattern and steel, the thickness of which should be six millimeters.

When making screw piles with your own hands, a screw blank must be made, which will need to be put on a cone-shaped tip and slightly strengthened by welding, acting from the inner edge of the working edge. Afterwards, using a pry bar, you will need to stretch the workpiece, turning it into a spiral. You need to act in this way until the inner part of the element is docked with the pipe. Afterwards, the running edge must be welded from the inside to the pile shaft, and then the entire remaining blade. When making a screw pile with your own hands, the drawings of which can be viewed in the article, you will need to work on the head, which should not cause any difficulties. In this case, special attention should be paid to the quality of the weld.

Features of the base

Before you start working on pile foundation, some preparatory work needs to be done. Among them are the preliminary calculation of the parameters of the supports, as well as the determination of the distance between them. It will also be necessary to carry out geodetic research at the construction site, this will make it possible to determine the characteristics of the soil. In addition to the preparatory work, one can highlight the need to treat the piles with a primer, which ensures the wear resistance of the elements. Before you screw the screw piles with your own hands, their surface must be treated with two layers of the compound. Painting must be carried out sequentially, between layers it is necessary to withstand a technological break, which will be necessary for the final drying of each layer.

Installation of supports

You need to start building a house on screw piles with your own hands from the highest corner, where the first support is installed. After the pile is installed, it must be cut according to the required mark. During further work it will act as a guide. If you managed to make a screw pile with your own hands, then at the next stage you can start screwing in the supports. The first ones must be positioned diagonally, after which all corner piles must be installed, ensuring technological distances. At the next stage, you need to install supports along the perimeter of the external walls, after which the piles are attached under the internal walls. Markings for trimming the upper part of the support can be set using a level.

Screwing Features

Before installing screw piles with your own hands, you need to know how to screw them. This must be done using scrap steel, which is inserted into prepared holes located in the barrel of the element. Additionally, parts of a pipe with a large diameter must be put on the scrap on both sides, after which two people must begin to screw the piles into the well prepared in advance.

Grillage installation

After installing the screw piles with your own hands is completed, you can proceed to installing the grillage, which is a connection designed to fix and ensure compatibility of the supporting structures. This element is located horizontally and is designed to increase the stability of the base in both vertical and horizontal directions.

The only exceptions are wooden houses, which have a sufficiently high elasticity in order to distribute the acting loads. For this reason, a wooden box must be installed on the pile heads. In other cases, you need to use a steel profile, which can be a channel or an I-beam; these elements will need to be welded to the pile column. This option should be used in the absence of rather difficult geological conditions. If you have to work in an area where swampy, floating soils predominate, and the soil is highly acidic and has a high alkali content, then you need to build a grillage using M300 grade concrete. In this case, anti-corrosion additives are used. This is also true if the service life of the structure is designed for 25 years, and no more. In this case, the piles must have holes that will allow concreting to be done from the inside. All supports must be reinforced. This type of foundation is more like a pile-strip foundation.

Compliance with installation technology

During the work, the installation of each pile element must be carried out strictly vertically and as accurately as possible. If unexpected obstacles are found that prevent the installation of the element (this could be rock or stones), it is recommended to install the pile in a place that is most suitable, but the installation area should not be more than three blade diameters from the original point. It is completely unacceptable to adjust the horizontal level of a pile that has already been installed. The final height must be ensured by welding a piece of pipe that has the appropriate size.

These measures are aimed at ensuring the reliability of the position of the piles after screwing. The pile must be deepened until the supporting soil layer is reached; the depth should not be less than the freezing line of the soil. This will ensure reliable fixation and immobility of the pile during impacts on the walls that may occur due to soil heaving. In order to prevent such impacts, it is necessary to correctly select the height of the base depending on the type of structure.

Finally

Do-it-yourself installation of screw piles is done quite often today; such foundations are quite competitive, which is justified when constructing residential buildings, gazebos, small bridges, bathhouses and piers. Such foundations are often used for buildings of any importance, but they are not intended for those houses that are intended to be used for a long time. In these cases, such grounds are simply irreplaceable and economically beneficial.

Do-it-yourself screw piles for the foundation: manufacturing, installation

The foundation using supports is very common today because it is quite simple to build. In addition, screw piles can be made with your own hands, which reduces the cost of the work process. If the building area has heaving soils that are regularly flooded, then using a similar construction technology is all the more relevant.

If materials are available, power tools can be constructed DIY screw piles, slightly reducing the construction budget. The savings are 15 - 20%, but the home master can be sure that the SHS will have the maximum service life. Many unscrupulous manufacturers use a seam pipe to reduce the cost of products and allow defects in the centering of the tip, which reduces the characteristics of the foundation many times over.

Screw pile design

The design of industrial SHS is extremely simple. The seamless thick-walled pipe has holes or clamps in the upper part for attaching levers, a pointed lance tip with a blade in the lower part. For soft soils, a second blade can be used at a distance of 0.4 - 0.6 m from the lower propeller. A special anti-corrosion coating protects metal elements from destruction.

Making a screw pile step by step

On initial stage It is enough to buy a seamless pipe with a wall of 4 - 5 mm, regardless of what structure will rest on the pile field. For the remaining elements of the SHS (welded screw pile), you will need sheet metal 4 - 6 mm thick. All parts are joined by welding; for cutting, you will need an angle grinder with a metal disc or more modern equipment (for example, a plasma cutter), which is often present in the arsenal of a home craftsman.

Depending on the depth of the formation with sufficient bearing capacity, the length of the SHS is 2 - 3 m. It is inconvenient to screw in longer products by hand, so if necessary, a three-meter product is immersed, extended near the ground with a piece of exactly the same pipe several times. The pipe must meet several criteria when choosing:

The specified parameters are optimally met by an assortment of steels 09G2S (corresponds to GOST 19281) or St20 (corresponds to GOST 8732).

Tip options

The easiest option to manufacture is a pile with a pipe tip. Then comes the cross-shaped peak, petal technology. The most complex tip is the welded version.

Cross pike

To make this tip you will need four pieces of sheet steel. The technology looks like:

• sheet cut - 1 round pipe plug; 1 triangle (the base is equal to the diameter of the pipe, the height is 2 - 2.5 diameters); 2 gussets serving as stiffeners for the triangle
• potholder - the triangle is installed at a right angle on the base-plug, with gussets leaning against the sides
• welding - double seam for all joints

The blade in this version cannot be welded to the peak, so it starts higher. In combination with the cross-shaped design, this significantly increases the tightening force.

Welding tip

The peak is made from several triangular-shaped petals. For diameters 76 - 89 mm, 4 petals are usually used, for diameters 108 - 159 increase to 5 petals, for pipes 219 - 325 7 - 11 petals are used. The template has dimensions:

A peak is welded from the blanks, which must be welded to the pipe, maintaining the coaxiality of the cone and the body of the pile. This is not easy at home. Shifting the tip a couple of centimeters to the side will ensure beating and loosening of the soil instead of compacting the walls of the well.

Peak from the body of the pile

The technology is similar to the previous method with minor additions:

Due to the similarity of technologies and the home craftsman’s lack of a lathe, alignment is also done by eye. The quality of the pile in this case depends entirely on the qualifications of the cutter cutting the teeth for welding.

The simplest pipe fitting

Many manufacturers of screw piles implement modifications without two types of conical tips:

In the latter option, concrete, when filling the internal cavity, is supplied under pressure, comes out in the depths of the formation, and after hardening, increases the bearing area and bearing capacity, respectively. These piles are the easiest to manufacture, however, the blade starts on the body of the pipe, which increases the screwing force. A mechanized diving method (drill + multiplier) is recommended.

In factory piles with cast, welded cone-shaped tips, the blade begins in the lower third of the peak, then moves to the body of the pipe. This significantly reduces the screwing force during manual immersion. The lower blade is mounted on all modifications of SHS, the upper blade is used in soils with insufficient bearing capacity. When manufactured independently, two-blade SHSs are rarely produced.

Single blade pile

To prepare this SHS element, you will need sheet steel of at least 5 mm thickness. The manufacturing technology of a single-thread blade is as follows:

In homemade SHS with a cross-shaped tip or without a tip, the blade starts from the lower edge of the pile body. All joints are double welded and the scale is knocked off before anti-corrosion treatment.

Two-bladed pile

The second propeller is manufactured similarly to the lower blade and is mounted 40–60 cm above it, depending on the characteristics of the formation located above the load-bearing layer. For an additional screw, 4 mm steel can be used, since the loads when immersing the SHS on it are significantly less.

Two-blade piles are more stable in the vertical direction after being buried by 70 cm. They can withstand prefabricated loads from the cottage 1.5 times greater than single-blade modifications. More resistant to lateral loads, they are often used for fences made of corrugated sheets with high windage, and banner banners.

Lever mounting unit

To rotate the SHS, levers are used, the ends of which must somehow be fixed in the upper part of the SHS. To do this, holes are usually made into which you can insert two crowbars or an adapter for a torque amplifier (multiplier) when screwing in the SHS with a drill. To preserve the pipe, in some cases two clamps are welded onto it (reinforcement 12 - 16 mm), which after immersion are cut off with a grinder.

Holes in the pile body

Due to the large diameter of the arms (crowbar or 1-inch pipe), drilling holes is ineffective. Therefore, they are burned through by welding or a gas cutting machine, then the angle grinder is aligned with the metal disk. The holes should be located below the edge of the pipe by two diameters, opposite each other.

As clamps, 12–16 mm reinforcement (smooth or periodic cross-section) curved along the diameter of the levers is usually used. The disadvantage of this method is the increase in labor costs (welding, cutting off clamps after installing the pile), the advantage is the preservation of the body of the pile (extra 15 - 20 cm), which is important for the construction budget.

Anti-corrosion coating

Metal structures operating underground rust even in the absence of oxygen in the lower layers of the soil. Therefore, upon completion of the welding work, viburnum is knocked off from all seams, and the pile is completely covered with anti-corrosion compounds. The most effective first layer of protection is hot-dip galvanizing. However, this method is not available at home. Therefore, the following compositions are used as primer:

The second layer is the composition:

These paint and varnish mixtures, in combination with a primer, provide a 30-90 year service life for the pile field. Only fiberglass protects against electrochemical corrosion (stray currents in the soil), which cannot be properly applied at home.

Following the above technologies, you can make a SHS pile yourself, ensuring a long service life of the foundation. Changes in the design of the blades and arbitrary peak sizes will lead to an increase in torque and a decrease in the load-bearing capacity of the product.

DIY screw piles

Making screw piles with your own hands If you have the materials and power tools, you can construct screw piles with your own hands, slightly reducing the construction budget. Savings amount to

Making screw piles with your own hands is difficult, but it is possible. Therefore, we will take the liberty of describing this technology. And the advice of FORUMHOUSE users will help us with this.

Calculating a pile-screw foundation is a complex job that requires the participation of specialists. Only the designer will be able to calculate the total number of screw piles, their density on the site, and their thickness. But if you want to build a house on a pile-screw foundation, in this article you will find the answer to the question of how to make screw piles yourself, and it also gives standard recommendations regarding determining their sizes.

How to make a screw pile. Design.

First, let's look at the general appearance of the homemade product and determine its main features.

The pile, made by the user of our portal, has a tetrahedral tip and is equipped with a spiral metal blade. Such options should be made in accordance with the drawing shown in the photo.

Let's consider the manufacturing process of the main elements indicated in the drawing.

Trunk

The base (trunk) is a hollow metal pipe.

In all cases, barrels are recommended to be made of steel with a strength of at least St. 20 according to GOST 8732-74 (for ordinary structural steels). If stronger alloy steels are used, then GOST 19281 is suitable (but at home you can limit yourself to the first option).

The first thing the pile creator needs to do is determine the length of its shaft. Using various “tricks” he will have to find out at what depth of the construction site the hard soil is located. The most correct (but expensive) solution would be to contact a geological exploration service. But among the sociable neighbors you may find a person who has a reasonable idea of ​​the state of the underground layers.

The length of the pipe should exceed the depth of the load-bearing layer by approximately 300...500 mm (if the pile protrudes higher from the ground, this distance may be greater). People with practical experience recommend making the length of the piles with a margin, so that later they do not have to be increased.

BSergeyMP FORUMHOUSE user

We screwed 17 pieces (house 9 by 8). Site on a slope. I trimmed some of the piles, extended some and filled them with concrete.

In order to determine the diameter of the pipe, you can refer to SNiP 2.02.03-85 (with its tables and formulas). But those who are not practically familiar with the design of building structures are guided by less sophisticated calculations:

• Pipe with a diameter of 47 to 76 mm is used in the construction of light fences and all kinds of fortifications
• Piles with a diameter of 89 mm are used in the construction of courtyard buildings (gazebos, bathhouses, etc.), as well as in the construction of brick fences
• For construction frame houses and log buildings, options with a diameter of 108 mm are used.

At home, it is not recommended to make DIY screw piles with a diameter exceeding 108 mm (which can withstand high loads). They will require a reinforced blade, and it will be very difficult to ensure such a product with high quality if manufactured independently.

Alexey Oreshkov FORUMHOUSE user

The larger the diameter, the more difficult it is to make the screw, that is, the blade itself to bend.

The minimum thickness of the barrel walls should be 4 mm. Its calculation is simple - the thicker the better. But when choosing the wall thickness, you should remember that the pile cone will have to be bent with a hammer.

Alexey Oreshkov

I made screw piles myself, it’s really possible to do it yourself. Pipe – 68x4 mm, screw – diameter 168 mm, screw thickness – 5 mm, pitch on the screw – 50 mm, tetrahedral tip length – 150 mm. Everything is cooked very well using a semi-automatic machine.

DIY screw piles. Cone

As can be seen in the drawing, the cone is the tip of the pile. Its length is equal to 1.5 to 2 pipe diameters. This is the standard, but some make the length a little longer to make the cone sharper and the pile to go into the ground easier.

At home, the cone is made tetrahedral or hexagonal. To do this, special sectors are cut out at the edge of the barrel, which are bent with a hammer into a cone and scalded by welding.

KostochkaForumHouse user

I made a template from thick paper, after dividing the circumference of the pipe into equal parts. Then I marked the pipe with a marker and made cuts with a grinder. The result is the so-called crown. The thickness of the pipe allows it to be easily bent with a hammer. At first it turned out very clumsily, but by welding all the defects were eliminated, and the tip turned out to be completely sealed, which made it possible to fill the pipe with concrete immediately after twisting.

This is what it looks like in the photo:

Do-it-yourself screw pile, manufacturing.

As you can see, the barrel was marked using a paper pattern. It's quite simple to produce. To do this, the diameter of the pipe circumference must be divided by the number of sectors. The found value is the distance between the top points of neighboring sectors. It is easy to transfer the data onto a paper drawing and get a ready-made template. Further actions consist of cutting out the “crown”, bending the petals and welding the resulting joints.

Before bending the cone petals, small slits should be made at the base of the crown. Then it will be easier to form the tip.

Construction of screw piles. Blade

The blade is the main working part. It should be made from sheet steel 5 mm thick. Many people prefer to do this. Some people manage to make a blade 6 mm thick, but bending such a part correctly is much more difficult. The blade material is carbon steel of ordinary quality (GOST 380-71). It is optimal to use grade 3 (it is used even in industrial production piles).

Now it's time to talk about the shape of the blade. Creating its geometry is the most critical stage of work. And if you make a mistake, the pile simply will not screw into the ground.

First, let's determine the internal and external diameters of the blade blank. The outer diameter of the blade (pile width) is directly dependent on the diameter of the pile shaft. Take a look at the table.

The inner diameter of the blade corresponds to the diameter of the pipe. Only the dimensions of the workpiece (taking into account the fact that it will bend to form the pitch of the screw) are slightly different from the diameter we already know. A simple solution for determining the dimensions of the workpiece is offered to us by the user of the FORUMHOUSE portal.

ErgaliFORUMHOUSE user

Take a pipe and measure the screw pitch on it. After this, measure the length of the turn on the pipe, divide by Pi and get the internal diameter of the workpiece. You add the width of the blade to the inner radius of the workpiece and get the outer radius of the workpiece.

Now a little about how to determine the propeller pitch. Typically, the propeller pitch is 0.2...0.4 from the outer diameter of the blade. If the propeller pitch is smaller, then small solid inclusions in the ground will get stuck between the blades, interfering with the progress of the pile. If this figure is higher, then more effort will have to be made to screw it into the ground.

Which specific step to use depends on the type of soil into which the piles are to be screwed. It’s easier to focus on the characteristics of the soil: the harder the soil in your area, the smaller the propeller pitch should be. On sandy soil (predominant in the east of Moscow), we take the maximum step.

Once all the dimensions have been determined, you can begin marking the steel sheet and cutting out the workpiece. To cut out the contour of the workpiece, we will need a plasma cutting machine with sufficient power, and we should make sure that it is available in advance.

At the next stage, the cut blank is bent in accordance with the selected screw pitch. At home, this can be done using an ordinary vice and available tools.

FORUMHOUSE user BSergeM offers his own version of a device for extending the blade.

Screw piles: manufacturing.

Please note that the bend on the cutting edge of the blade is quite small. This is how it is always done. Such a bend is enough for the pile, like a self-tapping screw, to go into the ground.

On the part of the blade that will go first into the ground, it is necessary to make a cut at 45°. This will help the pile to easily bypass solid mechanical inclusions located in the ground.

At the next stage, the finished part is welded to the pile shaft. The seam is laid at the top and bottom of the blade. The blade must be welded perpendicularly. Otherwise, the pile will loosen the soil while screwing in, destroying and weakening its structure. And on weakened soil, the pile will not be able to cope with the loads placed on it.

After completing all of the above operations, work on creating the lower part of the pile can be considered completed.

Top part. Making a pile head with your own hands

Two holes should be made in the upper part of the pile, which will help you independently screw the finished product into the ground. They can simply be cut through by welding.

You can also make pile caps yourself. To do this, it is enough to have suitable materials and a welding machine on hand.

You can take advantage of FORUMHOUSE user experience.

BSergeyM

On top I made headers (120 by 120) from tens. I made gussets on four sides and welded the parts onto all the aligned piles. After that, I tied the entire perimeter with 24 I-beams and scalded everything.

When the pile is screwed in and the head has not yet been installed, the internal cavity of the product can be filled with concrete. This will give strength to the entire pile foundation.

Corrosion protection

The problem of protecting homemade products from corrosion at home does not have a clear solution. But a couple of options still exist:

• Applying ship paint.
• Applying primer to metal.

If these materials are applied in two layers to the surface of the pile, then the protective layer remains even after the product is screwed into the ground. Just before applying paints and varnishes, the pile should be thoroughly cleaned of rust and degreased.

But here is a non-standard way out of the situation offered by a user of our portal.

Alexey Oreshkov.

After twisting, I dug up the pile half a meter, tinted it with bitumen paint and wrapped it in roofing felt.

There is a certain sense in this, because a pile at a depth of more than half a meter is almost not subject to corrosion.

You can discuss the numerous nuances of making screw piles with your own hands in the special FORUMHOUSE section. Find a lot useful information regarding regulations for the construction of foundations can be found in the “Useful links on foundations” section. “The nuances of choosing a foundation” is an article for those who have not yet decided on the type of future foundation. Also on our portal you will find a short video describing the features of a pile foundation.

The technology for constructing a pile-screw foundation is so simple that many homeowners boldly undertake its construction without the help of professional builders.

This decision is quite justified when constructing light buildings, but for the construction of a residential building it is still better to purchase factory-made piles.

Screw pile design

To make a high-quality screw pile for the foundation with your own hands, you should study its design.

A screw pile consists of several elements:

• trunk - round pipes with a wall thickness of 4 mm;
• a cone-shaped tip made at the lower end of the pile;
• a blade, which is a coil of a spiral welded onto the conical part of the pile;
• head - a square plate welded to the upper end of the barrel.

The head is made if the above-ground part of the structure will be built of wood. To give strength, it is reinforced with stiffening ribs. 4 holes with a diameter of 25 mm were drilled in the corners of the head.

Where to begin

The first thing you need to do before you start making screw piles with your own hands is a drawing. Let this be the simplest sketch, but on it you will be able to indicate the main dimensions of the product, and it will be easier for you to calculate the required amount of materials and mark the blanks of the support elements.

Indicate on the drawing:

• diameter of the pipe - trunk;
• pile length (including cone);
• cone angle or height;
• the distance from the top of the cone to the bottom edge of the blade.

If you are preparing piles for a wooden building, provide a head and stiffeners.

At this stage of work there is one snag - determining the length of the pile. By any means, you will have to find out at what depth the dense soil lies in the construction area.

The most correct, but also expensive way to find out this parameter is to order geological studies. Based on their results, a calculation of screw piles for the foundation is made.

But, since serious buildings are not erected on homemade piles, it is difficult to consider such costs expedient.

Most homeowners turn to experienced practitioners for information: there is always a person among the neighbors who has an idea of ​​the composition of the soil in a given area. locality.

The length of the pile should be 300-500 mm longer than the depth of the bearing layer: by this amount it will protrude above ground level.

Having decided on the dimensions, you can start producing screw piles with your own hands: keep the drawing at hand - you will need it both for marking the parts and for assembling the product.

Blade making

To make a screw pile blade you will need:

• sheet steel 5 mm thick;
• plasma cutter;
• vice;
• templates for marking the internal and external diameters of the workpiece;
• a lever for stretching the screw spiral (an ordinary crowbar will do).

Work order

Since a lot of piles will be required to construct the foundation, it is impractical to mark each workpiece using a compass.

It is better to spend some time making templates, but the speed of marking future blades with their help will be much higher.

You only need two templates:

• a small circle whose diameter is equal to the outer diameter of the pipe;
• a large circle with a diameter equal to the outer diameter of the screw.

It is advisable to mark the central axes on the templates: this makes it easier to orient them on the steel strip during marking.

After making the templates, you can begin further operations.

Cut the stripes

Proper cutting of steel strip reduces waste.

Therefore, its length and width must be multiples of the outer diameter of the blade blank:

• The width should fit a large template without allowances. That is, if its diameter is 200 mm, then the width of the strip should be 200 mm;
• The length of the strip should be equal to the diameter of the template multiplied by the number of blanks (without allowance for gaps between blanks).

To make all the blades the same, you should draw a strip: draw a horizontal axis along its length and vertical axis in increments equal to the diameter of the blade. The first vertical is marked from the short side of the strip at a distance equal to half the diameter of the workpiece.

Circles are marked using templates. This can be done in any order: first small (internal), then large (external) or vice versa.

But if you decide not to apply axes to the strip, markings must begin from the outer contour of the workpiece.

Making a helical spiral

Using a plasma cutter, workpieces are cut out sequentially. First, a cut is made along the vertical axis - up to the inner circle, then - along the internal markings, and only after that the outer contour of the blade is cut out.

The resulting rings are secured one by one in a vice with a vertical cut upwards and their ends are separated using a lever: first one end is bent, then the workpiece is released from the vice, turned over, secured - and the second end is bent.

The distance between them should be 130-140 mm (if the diameter of the blade is 200 mm). Moreover, the lower end of the blade (which twists into the ground) bends at a smaller angle than the upper.

When making screw piles with your own hands, this is the most difficult moment, since an incorrectly chosen angle will not allow you to screw the screw into the ground.

Making a cone tip

In factories, tips are made by casting. Do-it-yourself screw piles for the foundation are made “on the knee”, so it is easiest to form a cone from the body of the trunk.

Making a template

We start again by making a template. It is a triangle cut out of thin sheet metal or any other soft material (thick cardboard, plastic, etc.).

The height of the template is taken to be equal to two pipe diameters.

To determine the size of its base, you need to perform simple calculations:

• calculate the circumference of the trunk section: to do this, its outer diameter is multiplied by 3.14;
• divide the result obtained by the number of sectors from which the cone will be formed (for a pipe with a diameter of 76 mm, four are enough).

This will be the length of the base of the triangle - the template.

Cone design

Using a template, mark 4 sectors and cut them out of the pipe body using a grinder.

Carefully beat the remaining triangles on the pipe with a sledgehammer towards the center of the cross section until they are completely closed. Weld the joint lines with a continuous seam.

The weld must be of high quality. The number of sectors can be increased.

Assembly of a screw pile

When assembling foundation piles with your own hands, pay special attention to the following:

When installing the blade on the cone, there should be no gaps between their surfaces. If any, adjust the helix angle.

The distance from the bottom corner of the spiral to the top of the cone is 50 mm.

Having achieved a tight junction of these elements, weld the joint with a continuous seam. An intermittent one is not suitable here, since the screw experiences heavy loads during the tightening process.

After this, all that remains is to weld the head of the stiffener. The latter are right-angled triangles with a leg of 50 mm. The legs of the ribs are welded to the lower plane of the head and the surface of the pipe.

Now you know how to make a screw pile with your own hands. The more carefully you perform each operation, the more reliable the foundation of your building will be.

Video on how to make screw piles with your own hands.

The pile-screw foundation is so popular that in literally every locality you can find numerous structures resting on it. Since the technology for installing such a base does not pose any particular difficulties, some craftsmen went further and began making screw piles with their own hands.

This is quite realistic, especially if you want to build a lightweight building on your site, but for the construction of a massive residential building it is better to give preference to factory-made products. Let’s immediately make a reservation that such a process does not require complex equipment, and this also indicates the simplicity of the work.

Screw pile design

To ensure that the support is of high quality and durable, you need to familiarize yourself with its design features. A pile with blades includes several elements:

• trunk, which is a round pipe. The thickness of its walls is 4 cm;
• a cone-shaped tip attached to the lower end of the support;
• blades forming a spiral coil, welded onto a cone;
• head - a plug that is welded to the top of the pipe.

The head is needed when it is planned to build the ground part of the structure from wooden materials . To give the head greater strength, it is usually reinforced with stiffeners. Holes must be drilled in each corner of the plug (24 mm in diameter).

Homemade screw pile

Beginning of work

The first thing we need to do is draw up a drawing of the future screw pile. This may be the simplest sketch, but it will give you the opportunity to mark all the necessary dimensions of the support rod, and it will also make it easier to calculate the required amount of materials. Each element of the workpiece will be marked here.

The drawing must indicate:

1. What diameter will the pipe be?
2. The required length of the support, taking into account the cone.
3. The height or angle of the cone.
4. The distance from the bottom of the blade to the very top of the cone tip.

Drawing and dimensions of the main elements

If you need supports for a wooden structure, do not forget to provide a head (plug) and reinforcement in the form of stiffeners. Here the work may stall due to the need to accurately indicate the length of the pile, and you can find out this only after a soil analysis has been carried out. We are interested in the depth of dense soils. It would be best to order a soil analysis from a specialized bureau, but you will have to pay a lot for such a service.

But, since you are unlikely to build a residential building on homemade piles, you can do without expenses that would be inappropriate for a lightweight structure. You can ask friends or neighbors who have carried out serious construction if they know such information, in case they can clarify it. The technology provides for the following: the length of the support must exceed the depth of the bearing layer by 0.5 m, which is how much it will rise above ground level.

Having determined the dimensions, you can start making the blade at home, for which you will need:

• high-quality sheet steel;
• plasma cutter;
• vice;
• templates used to mark the internal and external diameters of the workpiece;
• equipment on which the helical spiral is stretched (you can limit yourself to a crowbar).

Stages of work

Since you need to make more than one pile, you will be fiddling with the compass for a very long time. In this case, it is better to make special templates that will speed up the process of marking the blades. Here you will need to make two templates yourself. On one of them it is necessary to draw a small circle with a diameter equal to the diameter of the pipe on its outer side.

The second template will contain a large circle and its diameter will be equal to the outer diameter of the screw. Each template should have a central axis marked on it, which will make it easier to fit them onto the steel strip at the time of marking. Now that the templates are ready, you can move on to the next stage.

We cut the strip

To minimize material consumption, it is necessary to correctly cut the steel strip. Please note that its length and width will be a multiple of the outer diameter of the blade (workpiece):

Cut the stripes

• The width of the large template should lie without allowances. For example, it has a diameter of 250 mm, which means the strip width should be the same 250 mm;
• the length of the strip should be equal to the diameter of the blade template multiplied by the number of blanks. No gap allowances are needed here.

To achieve the same size of all screw blades, the strip must be drawn, for which a horizontal axis is drawn along the length of the blade, and a vertical axis, the pitch of which must be equal to the diameter of the screw blade. The first vertical line will run from the short side of the strip at a distance that will be equal to ½ the diameter of the workpiece.

Now we need to mark the circles, and the template will help us with this. The process can be carried out in any order, that is, you can start marking with small circles and finish with large ones, or in the reverse order, there is no difference.

Creating a helical spiral

When all the markings are ready, it’s time to start cutting out the blanks. First, a cut is made starting from the vertical axis to the inner circle, and then along the inner axis. Finally, you need to cut out the outer contour of the helical blade.

Cutting blanks

Here we need equipment - a vice and an adjustable lever. The resulting rings are fixed one after another with a vice so that the vertical cut is turned upward, and then the ends are carefully pulled apart with a lever in different directions. After the first end has been bent, it is necessary to release the workpiece from the vice, turn it over to the other side, and bend the second end in the same way.

We measure the distance - it should be between 130 and 140 mm, with a blade diameter of 200 mm. Make sure that the end of the screw blade entering the ground is less bent than the top.

Making a helical spiral

Please note that in this process this is the most difficult and responsible task, because an incorrectly adjusted angle will not allow you to screw the screw support into the ground.

Working on the cone

In industrial conditions, the tips are produced using the casting method, but for obvious reasons, the home technology has been modified, and we will make a cone from a pipe - this is exactly how screw piles are manufactured privately.

Triangles to form the tip

Now we return to the template making process. In this case, it will be a triangle that needs to be cut out of a thin metal sheet (can be replaced with cardboard). The height of our template will be equal to the diameter of the pipe multiplied by two.

The size of the base is determined by simple calculations:

• first we calculate the circumference of the trunk in section, for which the outer diameter of the trunk must be multiplied by 3.14;
• We divide the resulting figure into sectors from which the screw cone will be made. If we take a pipe whose diameter is 76 mm, then four sectors will be enough for us. This way we quickly and accurately calculated the length of the base of our template triangle.

Forming a cone

We mark 4 segments using a previously made template and cut them out of the pipe with a grinder. The triangles that remain on the pipe should be bent with a sledgehammer to the center of the cross section without unnecessary effort. You need to stuff until they are completely closed. Now the welding equipment comes into operation. The joining seams are welded using a welding machine.

If necessary, the number of triangle segments can be increased. Make sure that the weld seam is neat, otherwise it may come apart and your efforts will be in vain.

Installing the blade on the tip

When the blade is installed on the cone, under no circumstances should gaps appear. If they still exist, you will have to adjust the angle of the spiral. Check the distance from the bottom corner of the spiral to the conical tip - you should get 50 mm. When the elements are tightly connected to each other, the joint is welded with an even continuous seam. In no case should an intermittent seam be allowed, because when screwed into the ground, a huge load will be exerted on the screw.

It's time to weld the head and stiffeners, created in the shape of triangles with a right angle and a leg of 50 mm. It is the leg that is welded to the bottom of the head and the pipe.

This is how simple technology and absolutely simple equipment will allow you to make excellent bladed piles yourself, on which you can build a small, lightweight structure.

Drawing of a screw pile. Diagram of the device and method of using metal piles.

Advantages of foundations using piles:
- from 30...70 percent lower cost of installation work;
- short installation time (up to one day);
- reliability and durability (service life up to one hundred years);
- possibility of installation without preliminary preparation of the terrain, in hard-to-reach and wetlands;
- possibility of installation in any weather conditions, at any time of the year;
- frost resistance of the structure;
- high strength characteristics, good load bearing capacity;
- the possibility of installing structures above the water surface (berths, buildings, piers);
- constant bearing capacity on different soils;
- high seismic resistance;
- the integrity of the soil is not compromised during installation;
- no waterproofing materials are required.

List of a sample of geometric dimensions of piles.

Diagram of the structure of the lower part of the foundation.

An example of installing a wooden structure on piles.

Description of design

The lower part is made in the form of a cone, which is equipped with a cutting blade. The cutting blade allows, when rotating, to bury the piles into the ground.

The design of other types of foundation can be seen in the article “Foundation drawing”.

Installing screw piles allows you to build a massive and durable foundation in a fairly quick time. It is better not to make piles for the foundation of a house yourself, but to purchase them from specialized companies. Since the highest load is placed on these elements and the service life of the house directly depends on their quality. It is quite possible to make piles for a small outbuilding or for a fence yourself. We will learn how to do this further.

Do-it-yourself screw piles: features and advantages

Screw piles are a steel pipe, on the end of which a blade is welded. That is, this element is somewhat similar to a drill. The main functional element of the pile is a screw-type tip, the blade of which, on one side, performs a supporting function, and on the other, transmits the load. In addition, the screw part acts as an anchor that holds the pile in the ground.

During the construction of light wooden structures, quite often the problem of soil heaving arises, as a result of which the foundation collapses. To prevent this unpleasant phenomenon, the piles are installed below the freezing depth of the soil. In this way, it is possible to prevent the impact of heaving forces on the foundation.

Screw piles allow you to build a quick, high-quality, economical foundation option. There are several sizes of piles, which are selected based on the size and material of the structure.

Among the advantages of using screw piles in private housing construction, we highlight:

• the pile foundation is erected both in winter and summer or in autumn or spring;
• the speed of construction of the building, the foundation is installed in a few days, work on the construction of the structure continues immediately after the foundation is made;
• no need to level the site for building a house;
• The pile foundation is suitable for any kind of soil with a complex relief structure.

However, foundations on screw piles also have certain disadvantages. First of all, the piles are subject to corrosion, as a result of which they collapse. The service life of such a foundation is lower than that of a concrete foundation. In addition, poor-quality processing of the material and incorrect technology for manufacturing piles also negatively affects the duration of their operation. It is recommended to use piles in the construction of a house only if the material is certified and has a number of documents confirming its quality.

The following factors reduce the service life of screw piles:

• the presence of power plants near the house;
• using a pile as grounding;
• prolonged soil heaving and the presence of groundwater near the pile;
• the presence of a railway track near the house.

Thus, if you want to choose a pile type of foundation for building a house, consider all the advantages and disadvantages of piles in operation.

Do-it-yourself screw piles video and varieties

Depending on the composition of screw piles, they can be welded or cast. The first option, which is more economical, has the shape of a pipe on which a pointed tip is welded. These piles are not able to withstand heavy loads and are used for the construction of gazebos and outbuildings. Welds on piles are susceptible to rapid corrosion, and poor quality welds lead to complete destruction of the pile. If the blade is not welded accurately, the pile is installed unevenly in the ground during the screwing process. In addition, problems arise when screwing the pile into rocky soil or into large roots.

This subsequently leads to uneven subsidence of the house and its emergency situation. Therefore, when choosing piles for the foundation, special attention should be paid to the quality of welded joints on the piles.

A pile with a cast tip is more reliable, but also more expensive. For the manufacture of such piles, the casting method and a vacuum sphere are used. Such tips are characterized by high installation accuracy. The cost of such piles is a quarter higher than piles with a welded connection. Cast tips can also be treated with high-quality anti-corrosion treatment and are recommended for use in the construction of massive buildings.

Do-it-yourself screw piles for foundation video:

The service life of a foundation with a cast tip is about one hundred years. However, when buying such piles, you should also exercise special care so as not to fall for a fake. The quality of the tip is determined by the precision of the factory technology. For example, after constructing a pile, it must be subject to heat treatment.

Do-it-yourself screw piles for foundations - manufacturing technology

A screw pile looks like a hollow pipe, one part of which has a cutting part in the form of a sharp tip. During the installation of the pile into the ground, the cutting part allows the pile to move deeper. Thus, it is possible to securely fix the pile in the ground.

The structural structure of the pile allows you to install them yourself, without the use of additional special equipment. However, the lifespan of the foundation directly depends on the quality of the material from which the piles are constructed.

Before starting the manufacture of screw piles, determine their structure, which consists of three main parts:

• load-bearing element - has the shape of a pipe, with a minimum diameter of 9 cm;
• screw part - ensures screwing of the pile;
• the upper part on which the beam is fixed.

To make a pile, a pipe with a certain diameter is used. If there is an uncast tip, for the manufacture of a pipe it is necessary to use several sectors connected to each other by a welding machine. To eliminate seams, the material is straightened.

Using machined discs, the screw part is manufactured. The size of the screw part depends on the depth of the pile. Next, using a vice, the workpiece is clamped in a certain position and stretched to the desired size. After fixing it on the surface of the pile, the element is coated with an anti-corrosion solution or paint.

A part in the form of a cap is installed on the top of the pile. It is on this that the channel or beam will be fixed. The width of the pile blades is at least 3 cm greater than the diameter of the pipe.

DIY screw pile installation video:

Features of installing screw piles with your own hands

In the process of installing screw piles, you will need the following:

• fittings used for marking;
• Bulgarians;
• levers;
• welding machine;
• normal level;
• concrete mortar.

Initially, a number of preparatory work should be performed to install the foundation part. At this stage, drawings are drawn up, calculations are performed, and the length and dimensions of the piles are determined. To do this, it is necessary to study the geological features of the soil; in relation to them, the depth of piles, the number of piles for a particular building, etc. are determined.

For ease of use of the plan, it should be divided into several parts, which make it easier to control the installation location of each pile. It is necessary to make a pile field by installing piles, which are installed at the corners of the rectangle. Reinforcement is installed on the corner parts of the site. Consider the width along which the strapping is performed. In this case, the installation of piles must be carried out along the central part.

A tightly stretched rope is used to connect the reinforcement or pegs. At the intersections of the rope, the installation points for the piles are determined. Installation of fittings is carried out in relation to the drilling points. Measure the diagonal sections that result when intersecting. the piles must be installed at the same distance from each other.

It is possible to use a pit for work, but its diameter should be several centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipe. Installation work should begin from the corner areas. The interval between piles should be the same. A magnetic level is mounted on the pile, which prevents it from moving in a vertical position. The quality of the foundation being manufactured directly depends on the density of the pile field.

Installation work - how to tighten screw piles with your own hands

To screw in piles, pipes are used that act as levers. A crowbar is placed inside the pipe and the pipe is screwed in with it. Please note that this process requires special physical effort, so it will require at least two people to complete it.

There are two ways to install screw piles with your own hands. The first involves the use of a drill, and the second is based on installing a pile without a drilling rig. In the process of independently screwing in a pile without a drill, the soil underneath is compacted and the pile is securely fixed in a certain position.

Thus, moisture does not penetrate through the compacted soil and it holds the pile well. To level the pile, improvised means in the form of spacers or crowbar are also used. To eliminate small deviations, a screw jack is used.

Next, the general frame is mounted. For these purposes, you will need a laser level. In relation to this measuring device, the piles are trimmed and a concrete solution is prepared for pouring into the inside of the pipes. Next, the headbands are installed and the seams are cleaned. An element is mounted on the headrests to provide a common connection, which increases the rigidity and durability of the structural elements.

It is quite difficult to build a house on screw piles with your own hands. However, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with general recommendations that will greatly simplify this process:

• for the manufacture of steel tips, use grade 25 metal, and use cold welding;
• with an increase in the diameter of the screws, the complexity of manufacturing the blades increases, since in order to straighten the steel disks, it is necessary to apply certain physical efforts;
• if the pile is installed unevenly in the soil and has gone to the side, then to correct the situation, it is enough to cut off its upper part and install another pile nearby; there is no need to pull out the pile, since the previously loosened soil will not hold it securely;
• make sure that the solution completely fills the pipes; this process must be performed with special care;
• if there are two blades on the surface of the pile, they should be installed below the soil freezing level, otherwise the pile will be subject to heaving forces;
• All welding components must be coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

The process of installing piles is simple; however, high-quality installed piles are obtained only if the installation technology is carefully followed.

Among the main structural elements of the pile, we note the stem part, the cutting element and the cone-shaped tip. If the building is made of wood, then another part of the pile is the head.

Making your own piles is quite difficult process the quality of execution of which directly determines the service life of the building under which the piles are laid. The resulting piles are determined by the quality of the steel and welds with which the elements were connected to each other.

A well-made pile is easily screwed into the soil, has high resistance to mechanical loads and easily copes with the functions assigned to it.

To independently construct screw-type piles, you will need:

• pipes made of high-quality steel with a diameter that is calculated in advance and depends on the pressure on the foundation;
• steel sheets for the manufacture of blades, screw section, etc.

The main technical indicators of a screw pile are the length of the pipe and the size of the blade. In order to build the stem part of the pile, you need to cut out triangles at the end of a previously prepared pipe with a grinder, and use a sledgehammer to form cones on them. To manufacture the screw part, special blanks with a cast tip are used. Using a pry bar, the workpiece is stretched in the form of a spiral, then connected to the pipe using a welding machine. Monitor the quality of welded joints; after constructing the pile, they are treated with a special solution.

Homemade piles are used for the construction of small outbuildings, garages, gazebos and other buildings. To build a house on a screw-pile foundation, it is recommended to use purchased pile options.

Installing screw piles with your own hands video: