Finnish rapid construction technology frame houses appeared in our country back in the 90s. At that time, everything foreign was treated almost with reverence; goods and services from neighboring Finland were no exception. But what lies behind this name - “Finnish frame house”, and how does this construction technology differ from others?

Let's figure it out.

Frame construction – speed comes first

Prefab buildings were designed to quickly provide affordable housing to large numbers of people. It was popular in the USA and Canada, in Finland and the Scandinavian countries, in Russia and the former fraternal republics.

Frame-panel houses in the USSR

Unfortunately, unfortunate builders during the Soviet period noticeably spoiled the reputation of frame structures. An attempt to provide state farm workers with inexpensive housing ended disastrously - unsuitable and substandard materials were used, there was not a sufficient production base for the manufacture of finished panels, and the qualifications of the workers left much to be desired. The result was buildings that did not stand up to criticism - minimal heat conservation, deformation of external walls and partitions, and a complete lack of comfortable conditions for residents.

The only advantage was the high speed of construction of the houses.

Finnish frame and panel construction - fast and warm

When using the technology developed by the Finns, frame-panel structures have practically no disadvantages - the houses are warm, can withstand heavy loads, have an attractive appearance and a long service life.

The main task is to quickly build a house that meets modern quality standards accepted in Europe.

Materials – frame elements, ready-made SIP panels, fasteners. In addition - roofing coverings, timber for rafters and material for the foundation.

Construction process:

• arrangement of the foundation for the building– most often used, support-column or drilled is also possible, strip or slab are chosen less often;
• wall installation– construction of the frame, installation of finished panels with a heat-insulating layer already laid between the OSB layers (expanded polystyrene, fire-resistant and does not emit harmful substances);
• roofing a house, choose ondulin or metal tiles for the roof;
• installation of doors, windows, interior decoration.

For construction in Finland, only materials from a trusted manufacturer are used. The insulation used to make the panels is non-flammable, harmless to health and durable.

How to build profitably?

IN construction company The client is offered to choose a configuration option. This can be either turnkey construction or construction of a house without finishing.

Finnish house, the design of which does not involve finishing work - profitable investment capital. You can decorate it inside and out, and construction will cost 15-20% less.

But there are also advantages to the turnkey package. This option is for those who do not want to delay the process or waste time and effort on carrying out the work themselves. The result of choosing a turnkey package is a building that is completely ready for use.

Materials

Construction wooden houses According to Finnish technology, it is carried out using panel elements - SIP panels and a frame structure, most often consisting of timber.

There is also a frameless method for assembling such houses, but this is more of a type of panel construction rather than a frame-panel technology.

Sip panels are a material designed specifically for the rapid construction of buildings. They consist of two layers of OSB, between which a heat-insulating layer is laid.

Advantages of ready-made panels for assembly:

• high level of heat retention;
• fast construction;
• convenient assembly;
• finishing work does not require large expenses.

For insulation, polystyrene foam is used, which, with the same thickness of the wall of the frame structure, is 1.5 times warmer than mineral wool.

It is also possible to build with insulation laid during installation, but this is a departure from traditional Finnish technology, the main idea of ​​which is to assemble a structure from the most ready-made elements.

Canadian, American and Finnish technologies - similarities and differences

Among the developers' proposals one can find the construction of frame houses using various technologies. But, in essence, all methods are similar.

• Canadian construction of frame houses. The same materials are used, but since in Canada buildings were built in groups, entire small areas, for greater convenience the material was brought to the site without cutting to size or preparation. The construction area simultaneously became a workshop for processing materials for further assembly.
• Finnish version. Finns mostly build individually. Therefore, manufacturers responded to the demand. A Finnish frame house is practically a construction kit based on a standard design, where all the details are provided. For assembly, panels of maximum readiness are used, which significantly speeds up the process, but leaves fewer options for individual design.
• American and Scandinavian frame-panel buildings. All these are modifications of the two types of building construction listed above. Some differences in materials, and the degree of readiness of frame-panel elements, that’s all the differences.

Finnish prefabricated houses are a convenient option not only for dacha development. Now, when the population strives to reduce the energy consumption of homes and increase their environmental friendliness, frame construction is becoming one of the competitive types of house construction.

Good afternoon

Inherited "in the village", built around the 1980s. The house is panel house, lined with sand-lime brick. Put on strip foundation. Heating is organized by installing a fireplace in the underground with an installed wood-burning boiler and radiators in the rooms. There is no running water or sewerage. In winter, the house was heated actively, which was due to its poor thermal insulation. Locals say that there is mineral wool inside the panels, and expanded clay is filled between the panels and sand-lime brick.

The first good rain also revealed leaky windows (no window sills installed). The corrugated slate roof is also leaking in several places.

In addition, the back part has noticeably settled (this is especially felt inside), the height difference between the front and back parts is about 7-8 cm.

The water supply is done in a strange way, to say the least - a well was drilled almost immediately along the edge of the foundation in the back of the house - there is water, but there is a lot of sand. Could the subsidence of the house along the rear part be associated with this type of well arrangement?

Based on this, I roughly sketched out an action plan for modernizing the house:

Leveling the house: I plan to dismantle the extensions on the back of the house (shed and porch), remove the remaining blind area, select the soil just below the edge of the foundation, remove the sand-lime brick and use jacks to lift the rear part to eliminate the distortion. Is such an operation possible, what kind of jacks should I use?;

Repair the roof: eliminate leaks, without changing the slate this year and without increasing the overhangs, we will survive the winter - we’ll see;

Remove the sand-lime brick, open the panels, remove the mineral wool, lay basalt mats - 100 or 150 mm thick, cover it with OSB board - with it and overwinter. is this possible?

Heating - does it make sense to start replacing it with a modern solid fuel boiler (with a water heating circuit). Why solid fuel and not gas? There is no gas. And the electric boiler is no longer needed, because the electricity was often cut off last winter. I don’t really want to sit in a house that is rapidly losing heat in -30 frost. Also, if installing a new boiler, what heating scheme do you recommend? I would arrange the wiring on metal-plastic, but left the old cast-iron radiators - they hold heat well.

Sewerage, I plan to install a two-chamber septic tank without fail for 3 (maximum 4) people - what do you recommend - take a ready-made one or pour it yourself from concrete? I will lay the pipes at -2.5 m (we have a freezing depth of 2.1 m according to SNiP).

There is a water supply, as indicated above, there is a well, but not where it is needed and the quality of the water is not very good. At what distance from the house (at a minimum, so as not to stretch the pipes too far) can a well be made?

Thank you in advance!

Frame houses are always popular among domestic owners of suburban areas. The technology for constructing such buildings is extremely simple. At the same time, they are very inexpensive, and living in them is quite comfortable. But since structures of this type are assembled from materials that are not very durable, many private developers have a completely natural question about what the service life is. frame house. The answer to this depends on several factors. And above all, on how accurately the technologies will be followed during the construction of such a building.

How long can a frame house last?

One of the main criteria for choosing materials for construction (be it timber, brick, logs or concrete) is, of course, the service life is actually almost two hundred years. For the first time, such houses began to be built in Canada back in the 18th century. Over the entire existence of this construction method, it, of course, has had both its adherents and opponents. The latter claim that even the best frame house will not last 30 years. Defenders of this method of constructing buildings cite German half-timbered buildings, which have been in use for more than a century, as an example. And in the USA today you can buy a good frame cottage, built at the beginning of the 20th century.

Of course, there are also official standards regarding the operating time of such structures. Thus, according to Gosstroy documentation, a frame house in Russia is 75 years old. After this it is subject to demolition. However, owners of private houses usually operate their properties much longer.

Frame houses in the USSR

In Soviet times, such buildings were called Finnish houses. They were built mainly by members gardening partnerships. They were not considered particularly convenient at that time. The fact is that they were built using imperfect technologies and using not very high-quality materials. As a result, such structures were blown by all the winds, and even in autumn, not to mention winter, it was not very comfortable to be in them. Of course, the Finnish houses did not last very long. The service life of a frame house of this type was extremely short. Today such buildings cannot even be found.

Modern frame houses: varieties

Nowadays, such structures are built, of course, using carefully developed technologies. There are only two: shield and Canadian. The first type of buildings is constructed using timber and modern inexpensive sheet materials. The second type of frame houses is built from ready-made SIP panels.

Lifespan of Canadian houses

Both the first and second types of modern structures of this type are durable. But canadian houses, of course, can last longer than panel ones. SIP panels are a structure assembled from two thick OSB sheets and insulation laid between them. Traditionally, polystyrene foam is used as the latter. But since the material is flammable, sometimes for safety reasons it is replaced with mineral wool. The service life of a frame house (Canadian), according to SIP panel manufacturers, can be up to 150 years. But only if a high-quality foundation is built under it.

How long can a panel structure last?

Frame service life wooden house this type directly depends on the materials used for its construction. The frame of such a building should be made only from high-quality timber, well-dried and treated with agents that prevent rotting (the same, by the way, applies to Canadian houses). The casing panel house It is better to make it from OSB sheets or plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm.

The thermal insulator, after several decades of operation of the building, can, of course, be replaced if necessary. But it’s worth initially purchasing high-quality material. It is best if it is Ursa cotton wool. Expanded polystyrene can also be used. But it is recommended to buy only the best, specially processed material. Cheap polystyrene foam, just like polystyrene foam, is loved by mice. These animals make nests in the thickness of such a heat insulator, significantly worsening the operational characteristics of the building and shortening its service life.

A structure such as a frame-fill house is also considered to be quite durable. The service life of such buildings is the same as that of any other panel buildings. However, the heat insulator in houses of this type (usually expanded clay) tends to sag over time. Therefore, you have to fill it up.

Of course, to protect the walls of such a building from moisture, it is necessary to use hydro- and vapor barrier materials. In addition, a ventilation gap must be provided during assembly. This also prevents wood from deteriorating due to high humidity.

Thus, if high-quality materials are used for a panel house, it will be able to stand for a long time. In any case, such a building will definitely last 70-100 years.

Residents' opinions about frame houses

Modern buildings of this type have good performance characteristics, so most of their owners do not regret the money spent on construction. Since another positive characteristic that distinguishes frame houses is their service life, they have earned really good reviews. The durability of these buildings is, of course, one of the main reasons for their popularity.

What is quality timber?

The service life depends on how correctly this material is chosen. frame-panel house, just like the Canadian one, it depends directly. Most often, pine lumber is used in the construction of such buildings. The fact is that coniferous wood is not only durable, but due to high percentage contains resinous substances and is also slightly susceptible to rotting. In addition, such timber is not too expensive.

When choosing lumber of this variety, first of all you need to take into account the time of harvesting logs. The highest quality timber is considered to be made from The fact is that during the cold season, the flow of sap in the trees slows down greatly. As a result, lumber from such logs is drier. Acceptable humidity parameters for pine timber intended for the construction of a frame house are 18-20%.

Among other things, when choosing timber you need to pay attention to its quality class. That is, by the number of existing knots. Grades 0, 1 and 2 are considered suitable for assembling a house frame. Grade 3 timber can be used for the construction of only minor, not very durable buildings.

And, of course, it is advisable to purchase material that has already been treated with all the compounds that extend its service life. This is how many manufacturers prepare lumber today.

What should be the foundation for a SIP building?

So, as we have already found out, the service life of a frame house of this type directly depends on how high-quality its foundation is. Most often, strip or columnar foundations with a grillage. The choice depends primarily on the type of soil on the site. Of course, the foundation must be buried below the freezing level. Buildings made from SIP panels are lightweight. Therefore, if the foundation is not deep enough, during spring heaving such a house will simply begin to be pushed out of the ground. Which, in turn, is fraught with jamming of doors, the appearance of cracks in structures, etc.

In wet areas, under buildings made of SIP panels, they usually install pile foundation. If the soil is not very stable and strong, it is worth pouring a solid concrete slab under the structure. Following these recommendations will significantly prolong

Foundation for panel construction

The service life of such buildings, of course, also depends on the reliability of their foundations. The rules for constructing a foundation for a panel house are the same as for structures made of SIP panels. That is, on reliable soil you can pour a grillage foundation, on clay soil - a strip foundation, on wet soil - a pile foundation, and on movable soil - a slab foundation. The main thing is to use high-grade concrete mortar to build the foundation. It is better to order a ready-made mixture. But you can make it yourself from sand, crushed stone and cement in a ratio of 3:4:1. To prepare the solution, use a concrete mixer. In this case, the concrete will be of much higher quality. Of course, the foundation for a frame-panel house must be reinforced using a rod with a thickness of at least 12 mm.

How to extend the life of a finished home

Of course, the durability of a frame building depends not only on the choice good materials and compliance with construction technologies. Such a structure should also be operated correctly. So, for example, in a building of this type it is necessary to arrange ventilation. This will significantly extend the life of the frame house. By Canadian technology buildings, unfortunately, are built mainly from materials that are not able to “breathe”. The same applies to ordinary panel houses. Therefore, installing ventilation will not only make the building more durable, but also improve its performance characteristics. Living in a house with constantly renewed air is, of course, more comfortable. Of course, during operation it is imperative to monitor the condition of all building structures and, if necessary, make repairs.

“At the same time, these houses had a number of significant shortcomings, the main one of which was poor thermal insulation, which made them unsuitable for use in harsh climatic conditions. The quality of prefabricated panel houses of the ShchL-51 type, which immediately received the name “51 cracks”... However, the construction of panel houses could solve housing problem only temporarily and to the detriment of quality"

It was during the 1950s. the basis was formed housing infrastructure forest villages. At this time, one-, two- and four-apartment prefabricated panel houses became widespread. During this period, they accounted for up to 70% of the total housing stock of the forest industry. The ease of transportation, the speed of assembly and disassembly of these houses corresponded to the peculiarities of the operation of a significant number of small forest villages, the period of which was sometimes limited to 1-3 or 5-6 years. At the same time, these houses had a number of significant shortcomings, the main one of which was poor thermal insulation, which made them unsuitable for use in the harsh climatic conditions of the republic. The quality of prefabricated panel houses of the ShchL-51 type, which immediately received the name “51 slots”, was especially low... However, the construction of panel houses was able to solve the housing problem only temporarily and to the detriment of quality. Panel houses built in the 1950s began to fall into disrepair by the end of the decade. In the early 1960s. their construction was stopped, and buildings made of logs and timber began to be erected instead. In the mid-1960s. share of panel houses in housing stock forest industry (including urban settlements) accounted for 42%. Over the next decade and a half, it decreased noticeably, but remained significant - 32% in 1980 / O.I. Kulagin. Petrozavodsk State University. 2015/.

But what kind of feedback did the builders of the villages of Pesochny, Pervomaisky, Shies have about panel houses (the name “Nyandoma forest plot” must be considered an editorial error. The correct name is “Nyandansky”, later – “Nyandsky”).

. In the Housing Construction section, the article “Our claims to suppliers”:

This year the Verkhne-Lupinsky timber industry enterprise of the Kotlasles trust is to receive 200 standard panel houses from house-building factories and assemble them.

The main supplier, Vologdolesosbyt, shipped only 44 houses in the second quarter. Because of this, the Nyandoma forest site was deprived of the opportunity to assemble houses for about two months.

On June 30, six four-apartment houses of the ShchL-51 type were received, shipped by the Kharovsky sawmill. Upon acceptance, it turned out that the factory did not send important parts.

The parts of the houses were loaded into the railway carriages in disarray. They were not linked. Nine window sashes and four doors were broken along the way. Wall and floor liners that were loaded in bulk also deteriorated. The rafter legs were not bundled together during loading. In addition, the shields on top were not covered with anything and were badly damaged by the rains.

In the entire batch of houses, the carpentry is not built into the panels. The doors, external frames and windows are not hung. Protective strips for frames and doors are not installed on all panels. And 23 window frames and 11 door panels were separated from the shields. Not all items are labeled to specification. They are not marked with a shipping mark.

As the facts show, the plant approached the shipment of houses irresponsibly. When construction began, it turned out that 112 door handles, 24 slabs, 76 kilograms of roofing iron, 192 window awnings, 20 kilograms of nails, etc. were missing. At the same time, we received 25 extra window handles, 58 window awnings and 8 kilograms of screws.

The plant does not send installation drawings and instructions for assembling houses in a timely manner. A batch of four- and five-apartment buildings was shipped to the Shiessky forest site in May, and it received installation drawings only a month and a half later, and then after instructions from the USSR Ministry of Forestry Industry.

The quality of the houses shipped by the sawmill is unsuitable. The joinery and panels are made from green lumber. Shortly after receipt, the paneled doors cracked and fell apart. Shrinkage caused cracks to form in the shields. The fastenings of the mating straps are poorly made. The panels are not completely filled with insulation.

We are making legitimate claims against the Kharovsky timber mill and expect that its director, Comrade Chizhov, will immediately eliminate the disorder in the shipment and assembly of panel houses to forestry enterprises.

A. Spirin, deputy director of the Verkhne-Lupinsky logging enterprise of the Kotlasles trust, V. Gardt, senior foreman of the logging enterprise.

(text of an article from the newspaper “Evening Urdoma” dated 08/04/2017)

Hello! Please tell me where to start and gradually reconstruct the old panel house. It so happened that there is no way to install a new one. I decided to remake the old switchboard that my grandmother had installed on the property. In addition to it, on the site there is also a residential shed for 2 rooms with an entrance hall, there is a separate shower with a dressing room, wide and large. To begin with, I wanted to add a shower to the change house, moving it close to it and completing the toilet. It would turn out to be such a small house with amenities. We are currently living in it and slowly reconstructing the old panel house. The house consists of one room - 20 sq. m. meters, kitchen - meters - 10 sq. meters. I would like to complete a small veranda, divide the large room into 2 rooms and extend the kitchen to put a small toilet and shower there. Tell me the sequence of work and the use of appropriate materials for this. Thanks in advance for your reply.

Alexander, Moscow.

Hello, Alexander from Moscow!

Well, you asked some questions!

Without a detailed inspection of the location of all your buildings, it is difficult to answer them.

The fact that you are planning not immediately, but gradually to reconstruct your grandmother’s inheritance, is the right idea.

Do you know what our clergy do when they return destroyed churches? They will first renovate a small corner of the large church with modest money and the involvement of the most active parishioners. And they immediately begin to hold church services there. And at the same time, they continue to renovate the remaining premises; fortunately, money begins to flow from their activities. And in the end everything changes.

This example is provided for comparison with your renovation plans. Do the same, you won't go wrong.

Using available funds, you should purchase the necessary building material. You will need river or quarry sand. In an amount of about 5 - 7 cubic meters. A lot of? No, it’s relatively inexpensive, but the transport, every trip it takes, costs a lot of money. Therefore, it’s easier to immediately bring it with a reserve. It will be needed for backfilling under the supports of your buildings, under paths, for preparing cement mortar, and the remaining sand, if there is any left, of course, for agricultural and other needs.

Cement, if needed in further construction, is purchased immediately before its use. Since during storage it can quickly turn into a dense mass unsuitable for further work with it. In any case, if you open the bag, you should wrap it in plastic wrap. This way it will last longer without contact with air moisture.

In addition, you will need industrial wood. Pine is most often used in its quality in the form of the most popular lumber - this is timber with a section of 100/100 millimeters, a section of 50/50 millimeters, edged boards 150/50; 100/50; 150/25 millimeters. I cannot predict the amount of material you will need; it is calculated strictly individually. Offhand, without claiming the slightest accuracy, I will say that large-section timber may require at least 4-6 pieces, small-section - about a dozen, large-section boards - 10 pieces, and small-section - three to four dozen. (All based on a 6-meter length).

If lumber remains in small quantities, it can always be used for household needs. Although practice shows that more often it is always missing.

For all kinds of wall cladding, ceilings, and partitions, you will need lining. It is sold in packs of 10 pieces. It is clear that it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​​​future building elements and only after that buy lining. Most often they buy it in different lengths. Let's say half three-meter and half 2.5 or 2.7 meters. This is dictated by the fact that different places require different lengths, and this way there will be less inevitable waste. And you can always make shorter ones from longer boards. They always try to fit the longer ones first, and then they build everything else from scraps.

/Remember that the width of a standard lining is usually 0.087 meters./ Lining, again depending on the thickness of the wallet, is taken in different classes (grades). The highest is “Prima” (aka “Extra”). Then class "A", "B" and the lowest - "C". With average income, clients buy class "B", at best - "A". Because “Prima” is expensive, but you can’t look at “C” without tears. When choosing packs, pay attention to the presence of moisture on the film from the inside; if there is dew, do not take it. Next moment- since the packs are packed, look at the side parts of the lining for the presence of potholes and knots. Choose a lining without them. Which does not at all guarantee that after you bring the packs and open them on the spot, half of them will have any flaws.

The floorboard is calculated based on the floor area. Taking into account the inevitable waste and the size of the room. The standard is 6 meters, less often - 4 and 3 meters. Try to make sure that the remaining trim can be joined on the floor joists. Why do they try to take the distance between the lags with this in mind?

Window and door blocks, glass, finishing elements (plinths, layouts, trim, strips, etc.) - as required.

The insulation is preferably made from mineral slabs or rolls. Polystyrene foam - in extreme cases (the smell from it is persistent). All kinds of films - better waterproof.

Roofing material in accordance with what is already on your buildings.

Hardware and nails are available in an assortment. That is, different lengths. Better galvanized.

Paints and impregnations - in the required quantities and the appropriate color. Of the expensive ones - “belinka”, cheap ones - only on internal surfaces.

Plumbing and electrical are a separate issue.

The tool you need - the more the better.

That's all. As they say, galloping across Europe. Because you will need quick thinking and ingenuity, but that’s okay, experience comes during work.

And the order is first all the markings, then excavation work (digging holes for supports), installation of support blocks under the base of moving buildings, under the toilet. Laying water supply and sewer pipes, digging a drainage hole. Drag and drop structures and install them on blocks. Installation and assembly of the toilet. Electrical and plumbing equipment.

And then the installation of a veranda with its roof, and the remodeling of the house itself.

Ask a question to Semenych (author of materials)

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