A one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap can often be found on clothing for both adults and children. Such a pocket has a three-dimensional shape, and the entrance to it is usually covered with a flap. Our master class will tell you in detail how to create a pattern and sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands.

One-piece briefcase pocket with flap: preparation for work

How to sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands? We will tell you how to sew a rectangular pocket with right corners and a flap with rounded corners. The pocket itself can be either a square or a rectangle; its size depends entirely on the design of the model. You also need to decide what the maximum thickness of the pocket will be. To provide this thickness for the pocket, an additional piece is needed: the sides and bottom. This part can be cut out separately, or it can be made whole - this is exactly the type of pocket we will talk about in our master class.

Regarding the valve, the shape of the bottom edge plays an important role. The valve can be rectangular, with rounded edges, triangular, or have an unusual, shaped edge. Another important decision is the pocket clasp. The valve can be fixed with a button, magnet or button. We'll show you how to sew a one-piece satchel pocket with a button flap. A buttonhole can be either a welt buttonhole (sewn by machine or by hand, or with facing) or an overlay buttonhole (for example, made from a tucked cord).

The choice of fabric for the pocket is determined by the design of the model. This can be either the main fabric of the product or additional material for the entire pocket or just for one part, for example for a valve. Sometimes, to highlight a flap or pocket, they are cut from the main fabric, but placed at a different angle to the fabric pattern. This technique is often used when sewing checkered or striped fabrics.

The valve consists of two layers. The bottom layer can be sewn from the same fabric as the top one. For a valve made of thick fabric, a thinner (or lining) fabric is usually used as the bottom layer.

So, let's sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands!

Pattern construction and cutting

Draw the basic shape of the front of the pocket (dark color in the diagram).

Add the desired pocket width to the sides and bottom and divide it in half. Draw diagonals (dotted lines in the photo) along the lower corners.

From the bottom corners of the pocket, draw perpendiculars to the right and left until they intersect with the first line, and then again perpendiculars until they intersect with the outer line. Cut out the resulting corner parts (white in the diagram). Draw a pattern for the valve of the desired shape. The width of the flap should be 1 cm wider than the front of the pocket.

Uncover

Add allowances to the pocket pattern: 1 cm on the sides and bottom, including cutouts in the corners. The allowance along the top edge is from 2 cm, depending on the method of processing the top of the pocket.

Cut out two valve parts, with an allowance of 1 cm around the entire perimeter.

Progress

Trim the valve part intended for installation on the underside of the valve along the sides and bottom by 2 mm.

Place the flap pieces right sides together, edges aligned, and stitch. The lower part will be smaller and will pull down the upper one. Trim the allowances, cut the allowances into triangles in the rounded areas.

Turn the flap out and stitch along the edge. Due to trimming, the seam will easily turn inside out. Iron.

Overcast the pocket piece as shown in the photo.

Iron the seam allowances to the wrong side. Trim any excess edges at the corners.

Iron the sides and bottom along the marked lines with an accordion, as shown in the photo.

Fold the corners diagonally and sew along the marked lines using two perpendicular lines.

Trim excess seam allowances and press to the sides. Turn the pocket inside out.

Pin the pocket using the allowances to a place on the product, focusing on the contour of the front part, outlined in advance.

Try on the valve and stitch as shown in the photo. Trim the seam allowance to approximately 3mm.

Turn the flap down, iron and topstitch, leaving a 5mm gap from the top to cover the first seam allowance.

Hi all!

Today, dear sewing lovers, I bring to your attention the first part of the article about pockets - briefcases.

In three parts of the article about patch pockets - briefcases, we will learn how to make a pattern for a pocket - briefcase, cut out parts for it, sew them together and fit the pocket onto the product.

In principle, any patch pocket can be turned into a briefcase pocket. But is anyone worth it? The volumetric shape of such a pocket is already a very noticeable decoration. Therefore, a pocket-briefcase will look most organic if the base of the pocket is a piece in the shape of a square, a rectangle, a square, a rectangle narrowed at the bottom or top, or the same square and rectangle (or almost a square and a rectangle), but with rounded edges.

What is the difference between a briefcase patch pocket and a regular patch pocket? Volume or, if you want, convexity. That’s probably why the pocket-briefcase is called that, because when finished, on the product, it really looks very similar to a briefcase.

This volume or convexity is achieved by adding one (two) more parts to the pocket. It is called differently: placket, fold, pocket connector, rectangular strip of fabric, etc.

And the topic of today's article is a pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners (ends, edges, etc.)

1. The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.
2. The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.

To make such a patch pocket, you need to add one more additional detail to the pattern of the pocket base. This is a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the outer contour of the pocket pattern.

The width of the part is 2 – 3 – 4 – 5 cm and more (according to the model). The larger the planned patch pocket - briefcase, respectively, the placket is cut wider, and vice versa.

On all four sides of the additional part and on three sides of the pocket (both sides and bottom), add seam allowances 0.7 - 1.2 cm wide (according to the model). At the top of the pocket, a double hem will require 2 - 4 cm of allowance (according to the model).

When cutting, it is better to place the pattern of the additional part on the fabric so that the grain of the fabric runs along the short, transverse side of the strip. Then the part will be a little plastic along its length (along the transverse thread), which will certainly be useful when connecting parts.

The placket can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or from another fabric, a companion fabric or a contrasting color to the main one (according to the model).

Patch pockets – briefcases are the “exclusive right” of clothing made from dense medium and heavy materials. And sections of tissues of these types, as a rule, are not very “free-flowing”. Therefore, it is quite possible to do without processing sections of pocket parts cut from similar fabrics.

But since voluminous pockets - briefcases - are most often placed on outerwear or on clothes related to the sports style, safari style, and clothing of such types, as a rule, is heavily used and subject to increased loads, it is still better that the cuts inside the pockets are protected.

Therefore, we treat the cut of one of the two longitudinal sides of the plank from shedding.

Fold the hem allowance at the top of the pocket to the wrong side (along the contour line). There we fold it again, in half, iron it and adjust it to the pocket (seam width according to the model).

On the additional part, turn it on the wrong side and iron one of the two long longitudinal sides of the part (from the side of the processed cut).

We fold the bar with the pocket with the right sides facing each other. And we baste it to the pocket (along the sides and bottom), with the long longitudinal side (with the raw cut), combining both parts along the contour lines.

The short transverse sides of the strap, along the line of the upper contour of the pocket, are turned to the wrong side and basted onto the pocket.

We lay a machine stitch along the contour of the pocket.

We trim the seam allowances to 0.5 cm

In places where the curves are rounded, we cut out the seam allowance with triangles.

If the outer side along the edge of the pocket (see further in the article) is not stitched to the edge, then it is better to treat the completed seam to prevent fraying.

We turn the connecting piece stitched onto the main part of the pocket to the wrong side, sweep out the edge of the pocket and iron it.

If there is a need for this (according to the model), you can lay it along the swept edge of the pocket.

Further. A pocket is placed in the place marked on the product. And combining the folded edge on the long longitudinal side of the strip and the contour line of the pocket on the product, we baste the pocket onto the product, and then stitch it into the edge.

How to secure the top side of the pocket, see below in the article.

The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

If the patch pocket - briefcase, discussed in the previous part of the article, simply protrudes (due to an additional part) from the surface of the product, then the pocket, which will be discussed in the second part of the article, is more like an accordion pocket.

Empty, it may not stand out much on the product. But if you put something there, then due to not one, but two additional parts, such a pocket “swells” well.

To make this type of briefcase patch pocket with rounded corners, we need to cut out two additional parts. We outline the outline of the pocket pattern, applying it to a new sheet of paper.

And at a distance (width of the slats (additional parts)) 2 – 3 – 4 – 5 cm, etc. (according to the model) from the edge of the drawn contour we draw a second contour.

Using the resulting patterns, we cut out the pocket details. There is one main part, but there are two additional ones, identical.

The connecting parts (straps) can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or from finishing fabrics (according to the model).

All parts are cut out with seam allowances of 0.7 - 1.2 cm.

We process the cut along the top side of the pocket and four cuts along the short transverse sides of both strips to prevent fraying.

Then, on both parts of the straps and on the main part of the pocket, we turn the seam allowance (along the line of the upper contour) to the wrong side and adjust it with a seam 0.6 - 1 cm wide (according to the model, it depends on the width of the seam allowance).

On one of the planks we process the cut and hem the allowance on the wrong side along the sides and bottom. You can read how to do this correctly in the article (second part of the article, pockets with rounded corners).

Having placed two parts of the planks face to face, we connect them together with a stitch stitch. The stitch is laid along the inner contour of the parts.

We treat the sections of connected parts to prevent shedding.

Now this entire “structure”, consisting of two stitched strips, is placed on the pocket so that the strip, the allowances on the long sides of which are not tucked, lies with the front side facing the front side of the pocket. (Between them there is a second strip stitched to the first, with a folded allowance).

The details of the pocket and the strap (one) are swept together,

and then a machine stitch is laid along the contour of the pocket and placket.

All this time you need to make sure that the strip located inside is not caught in the seam.

The seam allowances made are trimmed to 0.5 cm,

and in places of curves, allowances are cut out using triangles.

The completed seam is treated to prevent fraying (for pockets without external stitching to the edge).

Then, the strips are turned to the wrong side of the pocket, the edge of the pocket is swept out

and along the edge:

• or the line is not executed at all;

So, how can you secure the now protruding pocket parts at the top?

An additional piece (strap, pocket connecting piece) can be folded in half and the side of the pocket can be stitched with a stitch in the seam, one

Along the top, in the corners, on both sides of the pocket, you can sew triangles, equilateral or elongated more downwards.

In order to more securely secure the entire upper side of the pocket - briefcase on the product, you can first sew the lower side of the strap onto the product with a stitch up to 3 cm long. The stitch is laid along the inner seam or fold.

And then the top side of the strip is adjusted to the bottom line in the seam (on top, one or two lines (according to the model)). See above in the article.

You don’t have to secure the protruding pocket at all (according to the model).

By the way, when making most pockets - briefcases with a flap - this is exactly what they do.

The pocket is a briefcase with a flap.

Often the valve is an integral part of a pocket - a briefcase. And the valve for the pocket - briefcase is done, just like on, after sewing the pocket itself.

Pockets - briefcases with rounded corners have been mastered, move on.

Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

So I’m ready to create a master class! When I cut a new bag, the question always arises of what type of pockets to make. The internal ones are more and less clear, but there are a great variety of external, decorative ones. Today I will show you how to sew a voluminous briefcase pocket.
I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos - it’s been cloudy for 2 weeks now and it’s simply impossible to take photos in natural light (((

Well, let's begin!

We cut out the flap for the pocket from paper in full size, always taking into account the increase for stitching and topstitching - I have 1.5 cm.

We make a pattern of our future pocket on paper (checkered paper is convenient for me). Take paper of any size (you can use a double notebook sheet). Mark the middle of the pocket on paper, then draw 2 parallel lines at a distance of the planned width of the fold. My fold will be 1.5 cm.

We lay out future folds on the paper.

Draw an increase on top for the hem of the pocket, approximately 1.5-2.5 cm.

We apply the flap and outline the width of the pocket. We make an increase from the side edge line, the amount depends on how deep the pocket you want. We draw and cut off the excess - I also have an increase of 1.5 cm.

We bend the top and side increases, apply a flap and see how long we want the pocket, draw and cut off the excess.

Cut out corners equal to the depth of the pocket. During the sewing process, this will help us lay out the pocket without any problems. I have 1.5*1.5 cm. The finished pattern looks like this:

We cut out the valve. If the fabric is loose or stretches, glue it with non-woven fabric. We connect the parts as in the picture. We make notches on the fillets.

We turn the flap out, baste it (if the fabric is soft) or iron it through a damp cloth, stitch it and tack it on top so that the parts don’t fidget.

We transfer the pattern to the fabric, making seam allowances on all sides except those marked. Draw fold and top hem lines on the fabric. Overlay the sides and bottom.

We attach our paper pattern. It should look like this:

Iron the top hem to the wrong side and press the folds.

I usually press the pleats with one of these two options to give the pocket some volume. Today I'm using the first option.

Set off the pocket flap at a distance of 1.5 cm. Let's iron. We lay our folds, fasten them with pins and iron them again.

Iron the side hems and seam allowances according to the drawn markings. Iron the bottom allowance. It's clearer in the picture)))

Fold the piece vertically in half face to face and stitch along the fold line. On the top part approximately 1.5-2 cm and on the bottom 1.5-2 + 1 cm. allowance.

We pin the pocket to the main part and sew along the bottom fold line.

Let’s turn it over and see what we got)) I added a stitch along the sides so that the pocket would stand rigidly, like a “briefcase.” We pin with a small (1-2mm) overlap at the bottom. Outline the sides of the pocket and a little bit of the top. Like this:

Such a pocket can be made with a button, Velcro or button. The decorative stitching of the pocket can be done double. You can also do without the central fold - then you get a simpler option. There are many options!
Something like this)) This is my first master class, so if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them!
Good mood to you all!)))

So I’m ready to create a master class! When I cut a new bag, the question always arises of what type of pockets to make. The internal ones are more and less clear, but there are a great variety of external, decorative ones. Today I will show you how to sew a voluminous briefcase pocket.
I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos - it’s been cloudy for 2 weeks now and it’s simply impossible to take photos in natural light (((

Well, let's begin!

We cut out the flap for the pocket from paper in full size, always taking into account the increase for stitching and topstitching - I have 1.5 cm.

We make a pattern of our future pocket on paper (checkered paper is convenient for me). Take paper of any size (you can use a double notebook sheet). Mark the middle of the pocket on paper, then draw 2 parallel lines at a distance of the planned width of the fold. My fold will be 1.5 cm.

We lay out future folds on the paper.

Draw an increase on top for the hem of the pocket, approximately 1.5-2.5 cm.

We apply the flap and outline the width of the pocket. We make an increase from the side edge line, the amount depends on how deep the pocket you want. We draw and cut off the excess - I also have an increase of 1.5 cm.

We bend the top and side increases, apply a flap and see how long we want the pocket, draw and cut off the excess.

Cut out corners equal to the depth of the pocket. During the sewing process, this will help us lay out the pocket without any problems. I have 1.5*1.5 cm. The finished pattern looks like this:

We cut out the valve. If the fabric is loose or stretches, glue it with non-woven fabric. We connect the parts as in the picture. We make notches on the fillets.

We turn the flap out, baste it (if the fabric is soft) or iron it through a damp cloth, stitch it and tack it on top so that the parts don’t fidget.

We transfer the pattern to the fabric, making seam allowances on all sides except those marked. Draw fold and top hem lines on the fabric. Overlay the sides and bottom.

We attach our paper pattern. It should look like this:

Iron the top hem to the wrong side and press the folds.

I usually press the pleats with one of these two options to give the pocket some volume. Today I'm using the first option.

Set off the pocket flap at a distance of 1.5 cm. Let's iron. We lay our folds, fasten them with pins and iron them again.

Iron the side hems and seam allowances according to the drawn markings. Iron the bottom allowance. It's clearer in the picture)))

Fold the piece vertically in half face to face and stitch along the fold line. On the top part approximately 1.5-2 cm and on the bottom 1.5-2 + 1 cm. allowance.

We pin the pocket to the main part and sew along the bottom fold line.

Let’s turn it over and see what we got)) I added a stitch along the sides so that the pocket would stand rigidly, like a “briefcase.” We pin with a small (1-2mm) overlap at the bottom. Outline the sides of the pocket and a little bit of the top. Like this:

Now you need to sew the pocket to the main fabric. To do this, unfold the side accordion of the pocket, the upper corner of the side, bent along the allowance line, just falls into the drawn corner and sew 0.1 cm from the edge.

Place the bottom of the pocket 0.5 cm from the edge. We mark where we will have the flap, apply it to the marking with the front side and sew it 0.1 cm from the edge.

Bend the flap and stitch 0.5 from the edge. We iron everything through a damp cloth. Ready!

Such a pocket can be made with a button, Velcro or button. The decorative stitching of the pocket can be done double. You can also do without the central fold - then you get a simpler option. There are many options!
Something like this)) This is my first master class, so if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them!
Good mood to you all!)))

This is a fashionable sports version of the patch pocket. Regular patch pockets can easily be converted into briefcase pockets. For rounded pockets, a similar effect is achieved by using two strips corresponding to the shape of the pocket, and for rectangular pockets, by using one whole piece for the folds or one rectangular strip of fabric.

Rounded briefcase pocket

On the paper pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of approx. 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket piece as a separate piece. Cut out the pocket and placket from fabric with seam allowances along all cuts: cut out the pocket once, and cut out the placket twice.

Overcast the allowance along the top edge of the pocket and each placket, iron it inside out and topstitch. Overcast the allowance along the outer edge of one strip and iron it to the wrong side. Place the planks face to face and stitch the internal edges. Sew seam allowances together (2).

Pin the strip with the raw outer edge to the pocket face to face. Sew it in. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, and notch in the rounded areas (3). Sweep the bar onto the wrong side. Iron the edge and topstitch. If desired, the edge can be stitched additionally at a greater distance without catching the bar with the ironed outer edge.

Pin the pocket to the product and stitch only the bar underneath into the edge. If desired, the bottom bar can be stitched additionally at a greater distance. Stitch the bottom strip on each side of the top edge along the inner seam for a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to a length of approx. 3 cm exactly into the seam (4).